What are you currently working on??

Few more things done to the Ferguson tractor engine. All most ready to put back on the tractor. Need to make new flywheel bolt lock plates. Put them on, then the clutch and pressure plate.

Noel
 

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Ordering some parts for the Deere 110. Starter, head light bezel, carb rebuild kit, and a few other small parts. I'll get to it eventually, but I figured out real quick I am going to have more in it than its worth with the first order of parts...oh well, it'll be sticking around.
 
Ferguson engine is back on the tractor. Been about nine months since it was last on there. Still have to put the head , manifolds, wires, Starter, Alternator,rad, hoses, gas tank, fan and other stuff on yet.
It’s getting there. Maybe running next week. Maybe.

Noel
 

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I had removed transfer case bearing. Machinist inspected bearing and told me bearing fine, its a wheel bearing making the noise as it only happens when i lock my hubs. News to me so put transfer case back together. Did have to sacrifice a wrench to get front drive shaft off. Maybe I attacked it wrong but the wrench got it done.
I do have loaded hub in my parts roomIMG_2954.JPGIMG_2955.JPG, got a spare everything mechanical for this truck
 
Not much done today on the Ferguson engine. Put the starter, coil and a few other small items on hooked up some wires. The oil bath air filter cup has a hole in it. So it leaks. Cleaned the whole oil bath unit.
And the water pump which I turned every now and then so it would not seize is now seized. So not such a good day at it. But that’s the way it goes. A little bit ahead thou.

Noel
 
Worked on boy's jeep last night, he still had a eub on fan motor. He decided to pull dash back apart and remove heater box. Apparently when he separated the box, there was a ring with a groove that each half of box sits in. Well he didn't get one side back in causing it to run fan cage. He thanked me, said he wouldn't have figured it out. We put it all back together, other than he needs the fan resistor, everything works again. He learned the dash is one big ground.

I'm off work today, taking wife to get surgery, she has a trigger thumb, it locks straight all the time. They have to knock her out for a 10 min surgery.
 
Ferguson engine is back on the tractor. Been about nine months since it was last on there. Still have to put the head , manifolds, wires, Starter, Alternator,rad, hoses, gas tank, fan and other stuff on yet.
It’s getting there. Maybe running next week. Maybe.

Noel
Propane , you are winning, good results and good jobs take time , even though it seems like they take forever though
 
Hope your wife is doing ok Marty. Glad the Jeep is back together.

Last night and tonight I got a bit more done on the MF8E. I soldered the broken off headlight contact tabs. They probably melted off due the the fact that I had a muffler that blew darn near straight at them under the hood. They actually still work so during lunch at work today I bead blasted the head light retainers. The rubber that holds the headlights is very pliable, and I would think about like new! The bead blaster cleans good rubber up nicely. I don't know if anything will happen with it tomorrow. A kitchen drawer track broke and I may be converting that from cheap trailer house ones to better ones.

DACDSCN1356.JPGDSCN1360.JPG
 
Worked on boy's jeep last night, he still had a eub on fan motor. He decided to pull dash back apart and remove heater box. Apparently when he separated the box, there was a ring with a groove that each half of box sits in. Well he didn't get one side back in causing it to run fan cage. He thanked me, said he wouldn't have figured it out. We put it all back together, other than he needs the fan resistor, everything works again. He learned the dash is one big ground.

I'm off work today, taking wife to get surgery, she has a trigger thumb, it locks straight all the time. They have to knock her out for a 10 min surgery.
hoping all is going to be well with your wife
 
Had a bit of time this afternoon after the drawer project in the house to round up the switches that will operate the headlights and the engine off-on. The keyed switch is just off-on which is perfect for this engine since it still has the 110V starter on it. I will like that much better than the ground out contact on the throttle cable. Left switch is of course just a push-pull light switch. I'll work on the simple wiring tomorrow hopefully, clean the underside of the hood and install the headlights. I will also make new stickers for the throttle and choke levers. Choke is on the left, throttle on the right.

DAC

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finally finished getting the Cub 1200 back together, was mine but I was talked out of it by someone I know, who ruined the new clutch disc in short order and I found out that the aluminum oil pan was cracked. Wound up finding a cast iron pan for it (narrow base, hard to find) after I regasketed the original thinking that was "it" as I had recently completely overhauled the engine, only ~20-25 hours on it since then. This time I added a blue pulling spring, new throwout bearing and sleeve, teaser spring and rag joint.... the idiot that bought it runs high gear even with tall grass, Only uses it for mowing a very flat farm yard, splits time with 2 other Cubs. I added sleeves to the clutch fork and the hanger to get rid of the slop in the clutch pedal system while I was in there. It runs smoother than it ever has since I got it running initially, even though I never had it running til after the overhaul and I put solid motor mounts on it from the get go, throughout the speed range. When I originally rebuilt the engine and put that 1st clutch disc in, I also put a Zach Kerber 3 pin driver and clutch plates so with so little run time since that 1st clutch I just resurfaced the clutch plates on a belt sander to get the old smeared clutch disc remnants off of them.... that 1st disc I had gotten given to me by a puller guy because it wasn't the metal reinforced style, he knew it wouldn't last in pulling..... didn't last in mowing either....
I have another ~$100 in it with the 2nd new clutch and the upgrades I made, in hopes of avoiding another repeat.... plus my time. I don't think I will get that back.

surprisingly with the blue spring in place the pedal effort isn't near as much as I would have expected as the stock spring I replaced was only rated at 1/2 of what the blue spring is.... WHEN that original was brand new, that was.... IDK how much less it is now, after having been in there for 40 years.
When I got it initially this was gonna be my "keeper forever".... I wish I hadn't allowed myself to be talked out of it.
 
I'll be under the Dodge Ram 1500 putting in a new tranny!
Update on the tranny swap:
Everything bolted in just fine and had all gears until it warmed some. Then no OD and the trans temp light was on. At first, I thought it was getting hot. After several days of surfing through Dodge forums, I found the answer. The trans temp is for when it's too cold for the OD. Then I found that between '99 and '00 they changed the governor pressure sensor (which has the temp incorporated). The '99 had and oval connector, '00 & up was rectangular. Admist this change, they swapped the polarity of the temp sensor. Still have the old tranny here and opened it back up. Yep, oval connector. So I ran the truck up on the ramps and dropped the tranny pan. Yep, had the rectangular connector. Had to take several things apart and change out the wiring harness inside the trans. Not fun with fluid dripping all over you. But I stayed at it and am happy to say I now have a freshly rebuilt 'working' tranny!

The trans temp will not let it shift into OD!
 
I've seen those where something under the hood was done and the TPS or iac wasn't plugged back in or plugged in but not clipped in and that trans temp light would be on. I do know that the ones that have that trans temp light, when it is on you we will not have OD.
 
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