What are you currently working on??

Got bored sitting in the house so I went out to the shop. The Husky was missing one shoulder bolt for the hood to pivot on. It's 3/8" dia. on the shoulder, but a 5/16" bolt. I have some 3/8" steel OD tube, so I bored the ID to fit a 5/16" bolt on the drill press. Cut a 3/8" length and had my shoulder bolt. It's on the left.
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Here's a couple pics of the mower. The left front tire is on there due to the correct tire won't hold air.
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It's a decent looking machine!
 
I finally got the coon poop cleaned out of my new shed so I can work on my tractors. I got the drive shaft installed in my 3415S but still need to hook some other things and put the PTO back on after changing the BGB. That was a big coon that I got out of there a couple weeks ago.
 
I stand corrected... web search explains that it does come from the same tank as the front. Sounds like rubber hoses might be swapped at the tank?

The washer tank is in front of the right front wheel, in front of the inner fender. It holds a gallon of fluid, so I am betting dual pumps at the tank, one for each system. Back pump probably quit, line got plugged, got a leak or ?? ? and rather than fix it due to cost they tied the power to the back pump to the front pump. Some day when I have more time will dig in to it deeper and see what I can find out. Can't see the tank at all, only the top parrt of the neck & cap.
 
Found a Chrysler T&C forum but try and jump through all the hoops in the right sequence & at the right time and try to complete that cat sh _ _ deal, etc. failed so said to heck with them.
 
Found some info that says one tank, 2 pumps, separately operated. Somebody has done something to get the washer fluid to come out the front with both switches ??
 
Did manage to finish the hand crank for Cubby:

A 30" piece of 5/8" bar stock for $4.50, a little torch gas, a 5/16 grade 8 bolt, some paint & time is a lot better than the $70+ they want on ebay. Besides, I have the satisfaction that I made it myself!

Got the 314 fender deck sanded & primed, ready to final sand & paint when the weather's fit.
 
I have seen one of those vinyl cutters and the product they produce. Made me wonder if it would be possible to cut gasket material with one. Don

That is an awesome idea, never thought of that. May not cut one but I'm sure the software involved could be adapted, but would have to be added to in order to run the cutter

DAC, I remember someone on a FB group doing that, cutting gaskets out on a vinyl cutter or something like that. They scanned the original gasket, then used the program to make a new one.

It probably would be possible. My old cutter can cut sandblast stencil which is a heavy rubber material used to mask off granite and marble headstones to blast the lettering into them. The same material is also used to make sandblasted wood signs, which I made a lot of way back when. I don't think it would be worth the scanning, cleanup and conversion time unless there was a demand for a lot of gaskets. Maybe newer programs than mine would be a lot faster. I know I can make a gasket faster the old fashion way with a ball peen hammer and maybe a little cutting with an exacto knife.

DAC
 
Worked on tearing out more carpet and doing drywall repairs yesterday, Pulling staples sure does suck, but it needs to be done. I finished the stickers today, then decided I better get that belt back in the MF12G cutting deck. Problem---the center deck spindle was locked up! It was cutting fine last Monday so it must have happened when I shut down. Thankfully member Esbbent had sold me some used spindles and I had new bearings and seals on hand too. The deck is ready to install back in the tractor but I'll do that in the morning. This spindle is now greaseable and hopefully after mowing season I will get the other's set up the same way. Tired and ready to go in and clean up. I have to get mowing done tomorrow as I go on call at work Tuesday morning for a week.

DAC

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When we got the 09 town & country, no manual. Takes a while to find and read up on this with the downloaded manual. Found out the rear window is to have a washer. Separate switch on the left lever. But when it is activated, the front washer spray, nothing to the rear and no front wiper but the rear one wipes. I bet the line to the rear washer goes between the roof and headliner. Not sure I even want to think about fixing that.

Normally mower blades should run 1/4 - 3/8" low in front. Have to go by the blades, not the deck unless the manual says to due to the different configurations of deck shells. .
it's a lot more difference than that front to back.... might have to make some different rear hangers, the front ones on the deck are taken all the way up, and painted over so trying to adjust them would be futile anyways.... this mower came to me with this deck hanger and mule drive and a 48" version of the same style deck and I don't remember it hanging like this.... its that noticeable.
 
Worked on tearing out more carpet and doing drywall repairs yesterday, Pulling staples sure does suck, but it needs to be done.

I had to have capret removed in 5 rooms of the house, dreaded pulling staples. Carpet guy told me to remove any padding under staples then just hammer them into the floor. Much easier than pulling them all.
 
I had to have capret removed in 5 rooms of the house, dreaded pulling staples. Carpet guy told me to remove any padding under staples then just hammer them into the floor. Much easier than pulling them all.

I thought about that but we are going with the "engineered vinyl" fake hardwood flooring. They recommended pulling them, and I didn't want to take any chances on bumps appearing in the new floor. My wife and son did the pulling yesterday since I had too much other crap going on, until there weren't too many left for me. It is a newer trailer house so cheap staples may work back out.

DAC
 
Hey DAC, are the bearings in the spindle you can grease have the seals removed on the inside side of the bearing? If they have seals on both sides, grease won't help. And you can remove the seals if you need to on one side.

@MFDAC

The lower needle bearings are the ones that seem to give out and they are open so grease should flow into them. The upper bearing is sealed, maybe I should have removed the inner seal, but it seems to always be the lower needle bearings that fail. I thought about removing that inner seal on the top bearing but the one I removed still felt like new both times I have had this happen. I really wouldn't have been afraid of re-using the old sealed bearing, but replaced it anyway.

DAC
 
Did manage to finish the hand crank for Cubby:

A 30" piece of 5/8" bar stock for $4.50, a little torch gas, a 5/16 grade 8 bolt, some paint & time is a lot better than the $70+ they want on ebay. Besides, I have the satisfaction that I made it myself!

Got the 314 fender deck sanded & primed, ready to final sand & paint when the weather's fit.
That lumber rack sure looks organized. Mine looks like it was turned upside down...got to get it separated.
 
Doing a double bathroom refresh for a couple at church, paint walls/ceilings, new granite counters, swapping door handles and hinges out from brass to nickel, all new nickel accessories/lights. No time for tractor work.
I am taking a self induce unemployment hiatus for the month of July since I am getting laid off on Friday so after that they want the upstairs bedrooms( 2), hall and stairwell painted, main floor painted, all hinges/latches changed out, light swapped and she is thinking of doing a complete kitchen redo. I can probably work for them for 2 month with everything she wants done.
 
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