I never, I linked a video of the install of what I done to mine.
What did you do with your tractor today?
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
My problem was a bent points push rod. My spark was very weak and not consistent. I had a hard time pulling it out of the block. Once I looked inside the cam lobe was damaged.
Perfect fix for that, Jim! The rod wouldn't come out of the block on the K321. It must come out from the inside, but I didn't remove the cam when I rebuilt the engine. It probably pulls out from the inside. Could feel movement on the rod, but I had to put the dial indicator on it to determine if it was moving enough to open the points to specs---.019 if I remember correctly.
DAC
About 1998 I put one of those on an 031 AV Stihl chain saw. The instructions said it wouldn't work but at the time the Stihl replacement was way North of $100 and the Nova was $14 if I remember correctly. The saw ran fine for a year and quit. I put in another and it ran for another year and quit. When i went to replace it Stihl had came out with an upgraded replacement that sold for $45 so I bought that and used the saw until 2019.
Don
Don
That’s a neat fix Jim. But I’m wondering how you set the timing. I only know a bit about the kohlers. Points are set at 0.020 and that gives you 20 degrees before top dead centre spark plug firing. Which is what a kohler K series 10 to16 hp engine requires.
How does this unit know when to send spark ???
Noel
How does this unit know when to send spark ???
Noel
The MF8E got unburied with a summer of crap piled on it! Doing some re-arranging outside. Going to get the septic tank pumped Monday so I wanted to move the JD110. It won't push by hand with that flat tire now so pulled it with the MF8E since it needed woke up for winter. I tried firing the MF8E up and no start! Filled it with gas, still no start. Put the spark checker on it and plenty of fire there! Looked down under the tank and I had forgot to open the damm fuel shutoff---LOL! CRS sucks!
By the time I got stuff re-arranged it was getting dark but hooked up to the JD.
I decided to use the headlights, It was at a low idle so they aren't very bright. Rev it up and they are fine. Got to remember this engine is out of a snowblower, and wired like it was in that thing but I put a switch on the headlights. It's the only tractor I have with working headlights---LOL!
Got the '55 in the shop and the MF8E's winter spot is to the left of it.
The JD110 will winter here. I didn't get a cover for it but might use the billboard tarp that covered the MF1450 last winter.
Got a little stuff done today at least. My wife and daughter's covid is getting a lot better. They didn't need me to do stuff for them. So far, I seem to have dodged it again.
DAC
By the time I got stuff re-arranged it was getting dark but hooked up to the JD.
I decided to use the headlights, It was at a low idle so they aren't very bright. Rev it up and they are fine. Got to remember this engine is out of a snowblower, and wired like it was in that thing but I put a switch on the headlights. It's the only tractor I have with working headlights---LOL!
Got the '55 in the shop and the MF8E's winter spot is to the left of it.
The JD110 will winter here. I didn't get a cover for it but might use the billboard tarp that covered the MF1450 last winter.
Got a little stuff done today at least. My wife and daughter's covid is getting a lot better. They didn't need me to do stuff for them. So far, I seem to have dodged it again.
DAC
Finally wired in the rear work light. I didn't think it would take 2 hours like it did.
Upgraded the Yanmar P15D-25 incandescent headlamps to the Wagner HM202 halogens. Amazing brightness with the OE look and function. I wasn't too thrilled with LEDs due to their lack of longevity.
Replaced the 4-way flasher control. Now those fender warning lights work again.
I'm just about ready for the heavy sn*w days ahead.
Upgraded the Yanmar P15D-25 incandescent headlamps to the Wagner HM202 halogens. Amazing brightness with the OE look and function. I wasn't too thrilled with LEDs due to their lack of longevity.
Replaced the 4-way flasher control. Now those fender warning lights work again.
I'm just about ready for the heavy sn*w days ahead.
Not sure how it kills the engine. I just installed it and it works. They do emphasize the importance of grounding. I chose not to mount it on the block but instead under the dash box which is plastic. I had to run a separate ground wire from the module to the engine.
Not sure how it knows Noel but it works great.
I wanted to have the OE look and function without cutting into the dash panel. So I mounted a switch plate. The plate can handle 4X 8A switches. The panel cost less than $2. It's a PVC fence bracket. LOL
It's mounted right under the dash and above the fuse box. It has it's own fuse because I wasn't going to mess with the OE fuse box.
The halogen work light is so bright, it casted another image of itself down to the lower left. The camera picked the glare.
The front headlamp halogens are now super bright. The older era incandescent bulbs I'll never go back. These were simple replace and install. No mods to anything.
Halogen on the left.
Nothing today. Thought about a couple of them.
I have had my newest truck on the lift for a few days. Nothing serious, just changed all the fluids and filters, took out the plastic wheel well liners and blew out a lot of dirt leaves and popped some wedged stones out of some weird places (the front fender doglegs we're packed full of leaves/no wonder trucks are so prone to rot out there/ all they do is hold moisture in there like a sponge/ and took the taillights out, lots of small pebbles stuck between the tail light "bucket" and rear quarter panel where they come together just above the pinch welded seam that holds them together) and brushed lotsa sand out and blew it out between the inner and outer rear quarter, especially driver side.
Then I coated the living Hell out of every nook and cranny I could get to, plus the whole frame, inside the rockers, and more. I am trying something new(to me) /different on this truck. Anyone who watches the TV shows where they take some rusted hulk and restore it to show condition in a 1/2 hour has seen the ads for NHOU undercoating? Well, that's what I doused this truck with. I had bought a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff a few months ago. Watching the videos they claim it should take about a gallon and a half of product to coat a truck for the first time, less in subsequent years. I have between 2 and 2-1/2 gallons of product into this thing. And though it is still slimy it didn't drip hardly at all. I made sure to get between the outer wheel well and inner quarter panel as heavy as I could....
I discovered that my wife's work had a ton of weather tech no drill mudflaps on a super clearance, so I bought a set and put them on too. The truck came with what Dodge called "spats" from the factory instead of mudflaps. Those went in File 13.
My truck is a '12 and still pretty solid. I've seen '11 versions of my truck, with gaping rust holes in them around here. I gotta keep that from happening/ at least til I get it paid for. 10 months in, 38 to go til then. And reg cab long beds, are harder to find, with every model year since// in any brand.... So I gotta do what I can to preserve this one.
Along that line I still have my '96 Dakota which is 4wd (the '12 isn't) that will be my sacrificial lamb to the salt and brine. Which should further help the '12 last.
I have had my newest truck on the lift for a few days. Nothing serious, just changed all the fluids and filters, took out the plastic wheel well liners and blew out a lot of dirt leaves and popped some wedged stones out of some weird places (the front fender doglegs we're packed full of leaves/no wonder trucks are so prone to rot out there/ all they do is hold moisture in there like a sponge/ and took the taillights out, lots of small pebbles stuck between the tail light "bucket" and rear quarter panel where they come together just above the pinch welded seam that holds them together) and brushed lotsa sand out and blew it out between the inner and outer rear quarter, especially driver side.
Then I coated the living Hell out of every nook and cranny I could get to, plus the whole frame, inside the rockers, and more. I am trying something new(to me) /different on this truck. Anyone who watches the TV shows where they take some rusted hulk and restore it to show condition in a 1/2 hour has seen the ads for NHOU undercoating? Well, that's what I doused this truck with. I had bought a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff a few months ago. Watching the videos they claim it should take about a gallon and a half of product to coat a truck for the first time, less in subsequent years. I have between 2 and 2-1/2 gallons of product into this thing. And though it is still slimy it didn't drip hardly at all. I made sure to get between the outer wheel well and inner quarter panel as heavy as I could....
I discovered that my wife's work had a ton of weather tech no drill mudflaps on a super clearance, so I bought a set and put them on too. The truck came with what Dodge called "spats" from the factory instead of mudflaps. Those went in File 13.
My truck is a '12 and still pretty solid. I've seen '11 versions of my truck, with gaping rust holes in them around here. I gotta keep that from happening/ at least til I get it paid for. 10 months in, 38 to go til then. And reg cab long beds, are harder to find, with every model year since// in any brand.... So I gotta do what I can to preserve this one.
Along that line I still have my '96 Dakota which is 4wd (the '12 isn't) that will be my sacrificial lamb to the salt and brine. Which should further help the '12 last.
Finally got to use the Case 446 to do some tree haulin. Drove into the garden, just for fun. Hehe.
Works good.
Hope fully finish this section of blown over cherry trees today.
Could of used the Ferguson. But I didn’t. Used it yesterday.
Noel
Works good.
Hope fully finish this section of blown over cherry trees today.
Could of used the Ferguson. But I didn’t. Used it yesterday.
Noel
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Finished it up. Sure doesn’t look great. Few small trees in there. So they may grow. We are not sure what to do with the stumps yet. There maybe a bunch of small tree shoots come up next year. It’s all so got a lot of rose bushes in there too, so we see what happens next year.
Noel
Noel
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Cherry wood is very pricey. Cutting it up to harvest or sell in long straight sections is like small gold coins.
If you don't plan to sell the cherry wood, another option is to separate the bark, then split into 1 to 2 inch strips for the food wood smoker.
We did pork this year with last year's damaged apple tree wood. What a great smoke flavor.
You are getting cleared with what time you have to work with, Noel. The stumps can get pulled later. You have a variety of tractors so use them all! That Case is too pretty to use, but I'm glad you do!
I can't believe how green your grass is and it looks to be growing like crazy!
DAC
Yes Doug the grass really needs to be cut. But not gunna happen.
Noel
Have never smoked meat. Don’t have a smoker. Hear about people doing that. But never around here.
Noel