Could be, Noel. I was wondering if there was something that had a function or if it was just a cover.
DAC
And more junk.
- Thread starter MFDAC
- Start date
DAC
Sorry to hear about your wife hopefully it isn’t anything serious. Anytime we ever went to Urgent Care it was several hours before we got out, then a bill, then a prescription of some kind. On the tractor that looks like a shroud should be there. One of them things a lot of tractors are missing that no one puts back because of the inconvenience.
It was about 2 hours, Jim. And then another half hour to get the antibiotics. They just told her to rest and keep her leg elevated. We'll see how it goes.
Yeah so many things get taken off through the years and never stay with the tractor. This thing came with a tiller but the mule drive for it is missing.
DAC
Yeah so many things get taken off through the years and never stay with the tractor. This thing came with a tiller but the mule drive for it is missing.
DAC
On the square fender 110 there is a cover that fits into those two holes and snaps in at the bottom.
Remove that clip and you can move that bracket out of the way. Just make a mental note of the belt
routing for when you snake the new one back in.
Attachments
And that would be a good time to replace that idler pulley .
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Thanks, Rick! That 110 is different. The pedal is on the left on mine. Belt did come off fairly easy along with the deck itself. I can't get the front mount off yet. the spring pins won't move. Have them soaking. Didn't realize I took such lousy pictures.
There is a cut in the cover where the tensioner pully had scraped through.
This deck wheel bracket is cracked.
Got the cover off.
Looks like a good reason to leave the cover off. Got the belt pulled out of the pulleys and took the shop vac after it.
Belts actually look good. The tensioner flat pulley is junk, and the tensioner itself was frozen. got it freed up. The spindles feel real good. Spin nice and no play in them. Forgot to get a pic if the blades but they look good too, as well as the anti scalp rollers.
Fired that tractor up after I tied up that front deck hanger and drove it around in the yard for awhile. The pedal reacts fine, slowing the tractor and speeding it up so that tells me the variable pully is working. I should have remembered that in the previous posts. The lever does slow the tractor down pulling it vertical, but all the action is about in the last inch or so of movement. Must need some adjustment. No brakes when the pedal is pushed all the way down. It is also revving properly after repositioning the throttle link. I remembered to see if granny low gear works ok and it does. So 4 forward speeds and reverse all function.
That was it for today on that one. I needed to do a service on the MF12G. More on that in the next post.
DAC
There is a cut in the cover where the tensioner pully had scraped through.
This deck wheel bracket is cracked.
Got the cover off.
Looks like a good reason to leave the cover off. Got the belt pulled out of the pulleys and took the shop vac after it.
Belts actually look good. The tensioner flat pulley is junk, and the tensioner itself was frozen. got it freed up. The spindles feel real good. Spin nice and no play in them. Forgot to get a pic if the blades but they look good too, as well as the anti scalp rollers.
Fired that tractor up after I tied up that front deck hanger and drove it around in the yard for awhile. The pedal reacts fine, slowing the tractor and speeding it up so that tells me the variable pully is working. I should have remembered that in the previous posts. The lever does slow the tractor down pulling it vertical, but all the action is about in the last inch or so of movement. Must need some adjustment. No brakes when the pedal is pushed all the way down. It is also revving properly after repositioning the throttle link. I remembered to see if granny low gear works ok and it does. So 4 forward speeds and reverse all function.
That was it for today on that one. I needed to do a service on the MF12G. More on that in the next post.
DAC
It had been a year since the last oil change for the MF12G. Not too many hours though. I would guess around 15. Dropped the lift and drove it off. Went ahead and greased all the zirks and gave it a new air filter.
It was 4 years ago now when I rebuilt the deck, and added zirks and vents to the spindles.
Just dawned on me today that it is way easier to grease the spindles if I jack the front of the tractor up---LOL! The deck drops a long way!
It's ready for mowing again now, but it might be too hot tomorrow after my doc appointment.
DAC
It was 4 years ago now when I rebuilt the deck, and added zirks and vents to the spindles.
Just dawned on me today that it is way easier to grease the spindles if I jack the front of the tractor up---LOL! The deck drops a long way!
It's ready for mowing again now, but it might be too hot tomorrow after my doc appointment.
DAC
Doug, to adjust the variator look in front of the lever, their should be two holes, they may have plugs in them. If you look into the lower one you should see a 3/4 bolt. Set the handle five clicks forward, there should be two clicks left before it is all the way forward. The next step is to start the tractor (in neutral!) and loosen the 3/4 bolt, you should see the clutch/brake pedal raise up to vertical. If it doesn't rise, you can grab it and pull it back. Once the pedal is all the way up tightened the 3/4 bolt. After adjusting drive the tractor for a bit, you might have to put the variator one click forward from full back before it starts moving. If its more than that you might need new drive belts, if so, get both belts, and get them from JD. The belts are supposed to be changed as a set, and they are special to JD, being they are made with a 37 degree angle. Glad to hear all the gears work, which brings up another, be careful shifting gears, sometimes they end up being in two gears at once, NOT GOOD! Sometimes the small springs in the shifter forks get weak or broken, causing the forks to be able to move from not being stopped by the detents.
Great advice, Jake, Thanks! The shifter feels solid, not sloppy at all. Clicks into gears positively. Transaxle has some leaks. RR axle seal for sure, maybe more. I see the holes you mentioned. There's a plug over the front one and the 3/4" bolt head is exposed in the rear one. They are below the lever. Here's a pic. It's laid out a little different than you described.
Here's a pic of the bottom of the deck since I was taking more pictures.
DAC
Here's a pic of the bottom of the deck since I was taking more pictures.
DAC
I was going to look up that information. You beat me to it.
Seven out of my eleven Deeres are gear drives, so it's hardwired in my brain
Had some plumbing to do in the house today after my doc appt, then got out to the shop. I'm gonna mow tomorrow. Supposed to be cooler.
Did a horsetrade with a guy I know that has a Snapper 1850! I traded him an old walk behind snowblower for some front tires for the JD110. He came out and picked it up and dropped off the tires and wheels. I only had 40 bucks into the snowblower and it wasn't being used anymore. It outruns this old man. Anyway, I thought I would have to dismount the tires and mount them on the original wheels. Did some measuring and figured they could replace the original fronts. These new to me ones have ball bearings, rather than bushings so I was ok with making the swap.
The left front inner wheel bearing sucked to get off. I had been spraying penetrant on it as this is the side I had the little LT wheel on but it still wouldn't come off. Had to start with little screwdrivers pounding them in behind it and progress to big screwdrivers until I could start prying it a little at a time. Probably wasn't good on the bearing---LOL!
Just needed a couple of 3/4" flat washers on each side and a couple 5/8" washers on the threaded end and was able to snug the nut up just right to pin it.
Got the grease gun out and lubed the spindles and these wheels have zirks too. My off brand lock end was too big for the zirks on the wheels so I took a smaller connector and put a zirk in it to get them.
Still can't get that front deck mount off. I liked the quick links on the deck which were all free, but this one with the slots facing up is going to be a problem to get off I think. Look to be rusted pretty solid. Will need it to be removable to mount the front blade.
Looks a lot better with matching front tires!
I know it is sacrilege to not have yellow front wheels! They will get painted some time---LOL!
While it was up on the jack, I located and broke loose the gorilla tight engine drain plug, lowered the tractor and drained the oil. I'll put some fresh 30wt in it tomorrow.
DAC
Did a horsetrade with a guy I know that has a Snapper 1850! I traded him an old walk behind snowblower for some front tires for the JD110. He came out and picked it up and dropped off the tires and wheels. I only had 40 bucks into the snowblower and it wasn't being used anymore. It outruns this old man. Anyway, I thought I would have to dismount the tires and mount them on the original wheels. Did some measuring and figured they could replace the original fronts. These new to me ones have ball bearings, rather than bushings so I was ok with making the swap.
The left front inner wheel bearing sucked to get off. I had been spraying penetrant on it as this is the side I had the little LT wheel on but it still wouldn't come off. Had to start with little screwdrivers pounding them in behind it and progress to big screwdrivers until I could start prying it a little at a time. Probably wasn't good on the bearing---LOL!
Just needed a couple of 3/4" flat washers on each side and a couple 5/8" washers on the threaded end and was able to snug the nut up just right to pin it.
Got the grease gun out and lubed the spindles and these wheels have zirks too. My off brand lock end was too big for the zirks on the wheels so I took a smaller connector and put a zirk in it to get them.
Still can't get that front deck mount off. I liked the quick links on the deck which were all free, but this one with the slots facing up is going to be a problem to get off I think. Look to be rusted pretty solid. Will need it to be removable to mount the front blade.
Looks a lot better with matching front tires!
I know it is sacrilege to not have yellow front wheels! They will get painted some time---LOL!
While it was up on the jack, I located and broke loose the gorilla tight engine drain plug, lowered the tractor and drained the oil. I'll put some fresh 30wt in it tomorrow.
DAC
I've been soaking them, Jake! Hopefully they will break loose one of these days!
Finished the oil change this afternoon after mowing with the MF12G. installed a fuel filter because I could see a little dirt in the gas tank. Was going to wait until the new tank gets here but didn't want that crud in the carb. Fired it up to sling the fresh oil around and I forgot to open the gas shutoff valve so it quit after running for a minute or two. Opened the valve and tried to start it again and nothing. No clicks or anything. Just like before I put the new solenoid on. Jumped the starter and it fired up. Had to adjust the hi speed jet after putting the filter on. Switch seems to be working so that new solenoid may have took a dump already. That was enough for today. Would have driven it around a bit but it was raining.
DAC
Doug I have an aftermarket solenoid on my MTD990. It worked fine for the first year but after that it works when it wants to. I keep an old screwdriver in the tool box behind the seat to jump it. I’ve been wanting to grind the rivets off and take it apart to clean the contacts. Right now the screwdriver works fine lol.
I've got 2 or 3 more new ones, will probably put one on and just for the heck of it this one might get hit with the grinder like you say, Jim!
DAC
I got the left one to pound in today, Jake! Was able to tilt it out like you said. Once I had it on the welding table, I got the right one pounded in.
Looks like they have been pounded on before. Now it is questionable if they will push back out. I would assume they are spring loaded too?
The It was operator error why it wouldn't start yesterday. The solenoid is fine. I had latched in the implement clutch lever so the pulleys would just spin with the engine instead of free wheeling. Figured there was no sense in spinning the bearings in there if they don't need to be.
There is a switch that allows the engine to run but not start. Obviously that safety switch still works---LOL!
Drove it around in the yard for awhile again to give it more exercise after who knows how many years of just sitting in a yard with dogs pi$$ing on it.
The engine is a very nice, smooth runner, even with the Chinese carb on it. Can run it in the shop and never smell any fumes from it even. Won't put the grill and hood back on until I get the new gas tank mounted. Then the blade may get mounted. Going to lift it up with the crane on the MF1450 to look for more zirks and look how to check the gear lube level in the transaxle. The brake doesn't work either so better look into that also. Still need to adjust the variable pulley too.
The seats I have bought in the last couple of years at Fleet Farm won't bolt right up. Going to have to modify or hunt for one with 8-1/4" center to center bolt holes. Widest one I had bought was 7-1/2". Had to fabricate something for both of them too. Then there was one I mounted for a friend on a early 2000's Gardenway, and no holes fit it either.
Looks like this thing may live to do some chores yet!
DAC
AWESOME! Yes, they are spring loaded. Set the plate with the pins vertical and work on the top one first, soak it with penetrating fluid and "bounce" it till it moves freely, then go to the other one. Yep, the pto has a safety switch, there should also be one in the gear shifter plate too, a little ball switch at the bottom of the neutral slot .Grease zirks are on the steering kingpins, steering box, and about four or five on the lift linkages under the tractor. There should be three plugs in the transaxle, one in the top behind the shifter, one in the front in line with the shifter, and one in the bottom by the diff. Check the brake band to see if it's worn or oil soaked. Any questions, fire away, I'll answer all I can.
Thanks, JD! I sure appreciate your expertise on this poor old tractor! I just remembered---I can drive it on the lift and look at the underside too---LOL! I have only had the lift since March, so it isn't the first thing I think of yet!
Does that transaxle use 80-90?
DAC