And more junk.

[JDJake]

Thanks, JD! I sure appreciate your expertise on this poor old tractor! I just remembered---I can drive it on the lift and look at the underside too---LOL! I have only had the lift since March, so it isn't the first thing I think of yet!

Does that transaxle use 80-90?

DAC

Yep, 80-90. Easy way to fill and check is to get a hose or tube that will fit in the top plug hole and put it on a squeeze bottle. Take the front plug out and squeeze the gear oil in the top plug hole till you start to see it reach the front plug hole. Easier yet is to remove the shifter and pour it in there to, just have to make sure the shifter goes back in the right way.

 

[MFDAC]

Yep, 80-90. Easy way to fill and check is to get a hose or tube that will fit in the top plug hole and put it on a squeeze bottle. Take the front plug out and squeeze the gear oil in the top plug hole till you start to see it reach the front plug hole. Easier yet is to remove the shifter and pour it in there to, just have to make sure the shifter goes back in the right way.

I've got 80-90 in a 5 gallon bucket with a pump. May not be able to get the hook tube in there I suppose. Find out when I get a look at it!

DAC

 

[JDJake]

I've got 80-90 in a 5 gallon bucket with a pump. May not be able to get the hook tube in there I suppose. Find out when I get a look at it!

DAC

Remove the shifter then, just remember to put it back in the same place, neutral center is about the best for removal and installation.

 

[MFDAC]

Well, not good news. I got all the zirks I could find to take grease, but that is about it for the good.

Good was the right spring pin freed up with some persuasion.


Tried the same persuasion with the right one and broke off the roll pin, using a punch at it's base to try to get a little movement. First bad thing.


Put it on the lift and raised it up high enough that I could roll around in a chair to work on it. Having back issues.


There are at least 2 bad seals. RR axle and the brake shaft. Look at the color of the leak all over the brake drum and band. First hint of worse news.


It sucked to get the fill level and drain plugs broke loose. Ended up clamping vise grips on the square heads and hitting it with a hammer.

Did JD make orange gears?


I didn't think so---LOL! I knew there was big trouble when nothing but water came out of the drain plug. Might have been part dog pi$$!

There was one other GOOD thing that happened today. I'll cover that in the next post.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

The guy that gave me the front tires and wheels for the JD110 messaged me that he had a spool valve for a MF1650 that had good parts but had a stripped fitting. He had it in his pickup at work if I wanted to get it. Had to go into town anyway this morning so I got it.

It is complete and even has the lever pivots and s-hooks! The cap for the float valve is in good shape! Some of you may remember I had to build a strap over the one on my MF1450 as the ears were broken off. It will be good to have this for parts!




I clamped it in the vise and screwed a long 5/16" bolt into the lever pivots. It operates nicely and holds in the float position on the center lift lever.


This is the stripped out fitting.


DAC

 

[JDJake]

Well, not good news. I got all the zirks I could find to take grease, but that is about it for the good.

Good was the right spring pin freed up with some persuasion.
View attachment 71053

Tried the same persuasion with the right one and broke off the roll pin, using a punch at it's base to try to get a little movement. First bad thing.
View attachment 71054

Put it on the lift and raised it up high enough that I could roll around in a chair to work on it. Having back issues.
View attachment 71045 View attachment 71051

There are at least 2 bad seals. RR axle and the brake shaft. Look at the color of the leak all over the brake drum and band. First hint of worse news.
View attachment 71049 View attachment 71046

It sucked to get the fill level and drain plugs broke loose. Ended up clamping vise grips on the square heads and hitting it with a hammer.

Did JD make orange gears?
View attachment 71052

I didn't think so---LOL! I knew there was big trouble when nothing but water came out of the drain plug. Might have been part dog pi$$!

There was one other GOOD thing that happened today. I'll cover that in the next post.

DAC

Mixed bag day today, eh Doug? Glad to here you got a decent valve assembly for the 1650. The broken roll pin in the mower bracket can be drilled out and a new one inserted. In a way it will actually help you out, drill out the broken piece and the big pin should be able to come out the plate. You can clean up the pin and the bore of the hole it goes in, same can be done with the other pin. Bummer about the transmission, I would put some kerosene, diesel, or ATF in it and run it around awhile to loosen and clean the sludge out. Got some part numbers for you, Axle seals (2) M40676, Brake shaft seal {1) AR90860, Shifter gasket (1) M41048, these are JD part numbers, but you might be able to cross reference them.

 

[MFDAC]

Mixed bag day today, eh Doug? Glad to here you got a decent valve assembly for the 1650. The broken roll pin in the mower bracket can be drilled out and a new one inserted. In a way it will actually help you out, drill out the broken piece and the big pin should be able to come out the plate. You can clean up the pin and the bore of the hole it goes in, same can be done with the other pin. Bummer about the transmission, I would put some kerosene, diesel, or ATF in it and run it around awhile to loosen and clean the sludge out. Got some part numbers for you, Axle seals (2) M40676, Brake shaft seal {1) AR90860, Shifter gasket (1) M41048, these are JD part numbers, but you might be able to cross reference them.

The MF1650 that this valve came off of uses the same valve as my MF1450, Jake, I should have clarified that.

I figured the roll pin might be drilled out but still not sure how to make that pin move. Should exercise more patience I guess.

Figured I better get some diesel and fill it up to wash it out good as possible. I'm not going to take the transaxle apart to inspect it. I already know how it works, just don't know for how long. Won't have any problem putting the gear lube in it when that happens. The tube will reach the full level hole fine.

Thanks for those numbers, Jake I will google them to see if I can order new ones.

DAC

 

[JDJake]

IF you can get the pin on the other side moving good you can take the roll pin out, slide the large pin and spring out. Then you can use a long rod to drive the stuck pin out.

 

[MFDAC]

IF you can get the pin on the other side moving good you can take the roll pin out, slide the large pin and spring out. Then you can use a long rod to drive the stuck pin out.

The other side pin is moving good, Jake. I'll give it a try soon.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

IF you can get the pin on the other side moving good you can take the roll pin out, slide the large pin and spring out. Then you can use a long rod to drive the stuck pin out.

I haven't had much time to work in the shop the last couple days, but did get the pins out of that front mower mount like Jake had said.

I'll try to pick up a couple gallons of diesel to wash some of the rust out of the transaxle. I don't imagine that transaxle will have a very long lifespan, but the tractor probably won't get used much either.


DAC

 

[Sawdust]

You might be surprised Doug on your transaxle. Diesel fuel used like that will clean, rinse, and add a little lubricant throughout. I would do it at least twice then check the color to see if the orange rusty color is going away. We are pulling for you.

 

[MFDAC]

I hate to be pessimistic, but still not great news on the JD110 transaxle. Took the fender pan off and that was a small adventure since the pedal has to come off first. Finally got it to slide off though! Wanted to get a look at what I'm up against. Had to cut one of the pan mount bolts to get it off. One rubber mount is gone. Got 2-1/2 gallons of diesel, Took about 1-1/5 quarts to get it to the level hole, so I have plenty for more washings. Incidentally, diesel here cost $3.82/gal.




Filled it through the top fill tube.


Shoved it off the lift and raised it so I could bring in the MF1450 and use the crane on it to lift the JD110 and set jackstands under it. Left the crane attached too for a little more security. Can't just drive it around without the pan so going to run it in the shop. Let it run in 4th and reverse for about 10 minutes each direction. The brake shaft seal and RR axle seal practically pours out.




Drained out one wash of red crap.


This is the worst news. The magnetic drain plug.


Will wash it out a few more times and order seals anyway. Hope axle seals go easier than the MF8E did, Trashed an axle on it, trying to get a hub off. Had to pull the transaxle out and open it up to install the new axle. No leaks now at least!

DAC

 

[JDJake]

Hubs are splined and are held on with a snap ring. You will have to drop the transaxle to do the axle seal, they are inboard of the axle tubes. You will also have to remove the brake band and drum, with the band removed I would wash and soak it in brake cleaner.

 

[MFDAC]

Hubs are splined and are held on with a snap ring. You will have to drop the transaxle to do the axle seal, they are inboard of the axle tubes. You will also have to remove the brake band and drum, with the band removed I would wash and soak it in brake cleaner.

Hubs being splined is good news, dropping the transaxle, not so much, Jake.

There is a wiring connector and a single plug that I found but nowhere to connect them that I could see so far. I remember you said there is a switch at the shifter but is looks to be gone. Don't know what they were for, but the tractor starts and runs well.


DAC

 

[JDJake]

The older square fenders had a ball switch in the bottom of the neutral slot of the shifter gate. I think the later ones have a micro switch. They are there so you cant start the tractor in gear, looks like yours has been jumped, not surprised, the switches get tempermental after awhile, especially if the tractor has been sitting. Looking at the rear it looks like it had a Brinly hitch or a tiller on it, the rear lift package was a additional item, didn't come standard on the basic tractor.

 

[MFDAC]

The older square fenders had a ball switch in the bottom of the neutral slot of the shifter gate. I think the later ones have a micro switch. They are there so you cant start the tractor in gear, looks like yours has been jumped, not surprised, the switches get tempermental after awhile, especially if the tractor has been sitting. Looking at the rear it looks like it had a Brinly hitch or a tiller on it, the rear lift package was a additional item, didn't come standard on the basic tractor.

Thanks, Jake. No evidence that a switch was ever there. This tractor has front and rear lifts. It came with a front blade and a tiller. Unfortunately, the mule drive for the tiller was missing.


Washed out the transaxle 2 more times today. Less muddy but still not good. Drain plug magnet still catching filings, but not as much there too.

Had errands to run so I went by Menards and got the pieces to repair the slider pins for the front mower deck mount.
The spring that came out was almost rusted through in several places. Can't find a 6" spring so I'm going to try 2-3" springs. Picked up a roll pin box for replacements.


DAC

 

[JDJake]

The 3inch springs look like they are made with thinner wire, so they might not have the same amount of force as the 6 inch one. Also the springs might become entwined, I would suggest a small wooden or metal "plug" in between them if one would fit. Take the two big pins and lay them in front of the mounting plate as if the pins were fully retracted. Measure the distance between them, subtract the distance that the two springs compressed take up, and that should give you a good place to start for a plug measurement. Check the tine shaft bearings on that tiller really good, depending on the amount of use that tiller had they could be severely worn. Between my uncle and I, we have four of those 31 tillers, only one has good tine shaft bearings. Funny thing is the good tiller I got when I was out there in SD! If your tiller checks out ok Doug let me know, I may have a mule drive for you, and a lift assist spring, those tillers get heavy after awhile with just a manual lift.

 

[MFDAC]

The 3inch springs look like they are made with thinner wire, so they might not have the same amount of force as the 6 inch one. Also the springs might become entwined, I would suggest a small wooden or metal "plug" in between them if one would fit. Take the two big pins and lay them in front of the mounting plate as if the pins were fully retracted. Measure the distance between them, subtract the distance that the two springs compressed take up, and that should give you a good place to start for a plug measurement. Check the tine shaft bearings on that tiller really good, depending on the amount of use that tiller had they could be severely worn. Between my uncle and I, we have four of those 31 tillers, only one has good tine shaft bearings. Funny thing is the good tiller I got when I was out there in SD! If your tiller checks out ok Doug let me know, I may have a mule drive for you, and a lift assist spring, those tillers get heavy after awhile with just a manual lift.

Good info, Jake! Don't know if I would ever use a tiller but will check it out some time. At least you got a good piece of equipment during your time in South Dakota! Can't find those bearings?

I was going to cut a piece of steel rod to shove in between the springs. Not a huge difference in wire diameter, .054 for the new ones and .062 for the old one. Micro eye Jake---LOL! The new springs definitely feel more stout than the old one. The old spring was working one pin fine after I got one freed up.

DAC

 

[JDJake]

I can get them, just a little bit spendy for three sets, and not really worth it right now because the tines are worn on all three bad tillers. Can no longer get the tines through Deere, a private company makes replacements, but they are very spendy. Also, if the tines haven't been removed in ages they are a royal pain in the derriere to remove. Good to hear the new springs feel stouter. I got the tiller in a package deal, hydraulic lift 216, 4 wheel 46" deck, 32A snow blower, and the 31 tiller with both extensions. Tractor was sitting outside a small engine shop, the two guys running the shop could not get the sparkplug to fire. Talked to the one guy and he gave me the owners phone number. Called him up and we agreed on a price. This happened in winter, he called me up later in the spring and asked if I wanted the attachments, which I said yes. When I saw what all he had I actually gave him more money then we intially agreed on.

 

[MFDAC]

Sounds like a really good score, Jake! At least you got a good tiller with the deal! Good of you to pay some more for the attachments. That is a good for souvenirs from South Dakota as you can get---LOL!

Washed the transaxle 3 more times today. The drained diesel still had some rust color to it, but the magnetic drain plug got to where there was very little shavings on it. Used all the diesel I had so enough was enough. Went ahead and put some 80-90 in it. Found a couple quarts so I didn't get out the pump bucket. Added a few ounces of Lucas with it. Tractor Data says 3/4 quart capacity, so it doesn't have to be clear up to the level plug according to them. Got seals ordered but I need to be able to move the tractor for other projects. At least it runs and drives until the seals can be put in. Set it back on the ground and cleaned up the diesel smelling mess! Still don't know why so much water got in there, but hopefully it was just years of being in the extreme weather.


Assembled the front deck mount. A 3/8" nut fit in the tube just right so I built a spacer from a 3/8" bolt and a couple of nuts. It will help keep the springs centered too.


Had to de-burr one of the pins as the rust seemed to have swelled it in spots. Used a flap disc. Got it where there are no binds. Assembled it and stuck punches in the roll pin holes to test it out. Seems to work fine.


Drove in the roll pins and tested them. They work pretty smooth. I decided to use spray lube occasionally rather than greasing them up. Figured grease would collect dirt worse.


The new gas tank got here today. Removed the too big temporary one and did some test fitting. Going to have to drill 2-1/4" holes lower as the solenoid would rub on the bottom of the tank. Only have to lower it 1/2" or so. It's too long to flip upside down. The implement clutch arm would hit it then. With come creative work, it may be possible to use the original tank straps Rick sent me. Will try to work on that more tomorrow after a doc appointment.




DAC