And more junk.

Did you use the variator any Doug? It helps to keep them cleaned up and functioning.
Yeah, Jake I did. It slows way down when pulled back. 3/4 of the way forward it seems to be as fast as it gets. I did do a running adjustment with your info a month or two ago. It operates with a little less effort than the variator on the MF12G. The pedal responds fine too.

DAC
 
Had doc appt, a trip to the pharmacy and then Sam's club today. Loree pre-ordered the Sam's club stuff, so all I had to do is drive up and click "I'm Here" on the app. About 5 minutes later, a girl brought it out and we loaded up. Never had to set foot in that nuthouse---LOL!

When I got home, did a couple of household chores----that reminds me---I still need to take the garbage can out to the road for pickup tomorrow morning. Be right back---LOL!

Ok, that's done. Got out to the shop, Put a funnel in an almost empty 2-1/2 gallon gas can with a paint filter in it. Started draining the GT5000 gas tank to install a new fuel line. Then I went to work with a meter checking the wiring on the MF1450 to see if something there is causing the no-charging issue. Found no continuity from the switch to the rectifier. Found a loose connection. Got continuity through that circuit. About the time I corrected that, I started smelling gas. There was more gas in that GT5000 than I thought! The can was overflowing, dang it! See what I get for thinking I can multi task? Probably a bucks worth of gas all over the floor. Took care of that, checked that paint filter, and not a speck of black residue like what was showing up in the in line filter! WTH! Turned a fan on the gas puddle and came in the office and worked on making slot car stickers for awhile. The gas fumes don't work to good with my breathing issues any more. The new filters that Dan and Jim use got here today too. I will fire up the MF1450 tomorrow and do that AC voltage test again. Only have one errand to run tomorrow.

DAC
 
I should have went and bought lottery tickets this afternoon---LOL! Took the GT5000 carb off and cleaned it, finding nothing just like the "Gardenway" LT I had given to me a month or so ago.
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Took the float and needle out. Then blew out the passages and didn't notice any debris.

Went ahead and put it back together, doing what Roger suggested. The fender pan needs to be pulled to change the fuel line so just put in the new filter and hoped for the best.
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It cranked and cranked but I forgot to give it throttle. Fired up instantly then! New fuel filter definitely looks like better quality.
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Put the hood back on and drove it around for a while, and cut some grass. Ran flawlessly.

There is a lot of thunder and lightning in the area so I didn't stay outside too long. Time to see if fixing that wire on the MF1450 helped the no charge issue. Like a dummy I didn't pull the plug off the rectifier before starting. Took a screwdriver to pop it off and sparks! Was able to get my fingers in there before it got real hot and pop it off. I felt the sparks were a good thing long as I didn't fry anything. The meter results were great!
36.18 VAC at full throttle. Maybe too much? Is 18.15 good at idle? DC volts at the battery were good too. 13-14.5 volts. The amp gauge was even showing a little charge. The battery had been on a maintainer, so it was fully charged.
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Maybe I should still run over to the c-store and get some lotto tickets---LOL!

Worked on those slot cars for an hour after that.

DAC
 
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Sounds good Chris, I appreciate the info! Daniel had said 28 VAC+ is fine. Noel had a range of 28-32.

Didn't do any tractor work today. PT this morning then a couple loads of laundry to wash and fold. I do my own as then I find all of my socks, and Loree doesn't know about an occasional shop rag too---LOL!

Got two dozen of those slot cars lettered. One more dozen to go.

DAC
 
PT this morning then a couple loads of laundry to wash and fold. I do my own as then I find all of my socks, and Loree doesn't know about an occasional shop rag too---LOL!


DAC
That’s funny. I keep a paper towel in my pants pockets because of allergy’s or wiping sweat off. Sometimes I leave one in and it makes a mess in the laundry. Putting a shop rag which is mostly torn up old clothes for me or shop gloves can put a guy in the dog house quick.
 
Thanks again for the good advice, and comments, Chris, Jim and Daniel!

Busy day. I have determined that the '06 Denali has a bad u-joint, by a clunk I heard putting it in gear while I had the door open. Started moving stuff to get it in the shop on the lift. The GT5000 fired up and ran great, even did some mowing around the septic tank and drain field. Put the JD110 back in the shed for now, and parked the GT5000 under the camper cabover. Started the MF1450 and it's gauge still looks to be showing a charge now, but as much as that engine vibrates, the needle in the gauge bounces a lot. Brought the lift down, unloaded it and removed the tractor decks. The MF12G started without a battery maintainer as it has been over a month since I had it running. Just pushed the MF8E since it is a 110v starter and it pushes easy. I would like to convert that thing to 12V start.
DSCN5654.JPG

I sprayed weeds in the gravel too since I was moving the truck and tractors around.
We have rain coming tomorrow and Saturday so those tractors still have to be back inside.

This is the heaviest load the lift will ever get. I forget how much the truck weighs though.
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The bad u-joint but going to replace all 4. Unfortunately these are those ones that require the plastic retainers have to be melted out to press the joints out. Looks like replacement ones use the more normal c-clip.
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Got room for the MF8E and will have room to work even with the MF12G and MF1450 back in the shop.
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Got sore so time for some mostly sit down work. There are now 36 1970 Chevelle SS slot cars done in the office! A week before the self-imposed deadline.
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Tired. Now the u-joint job will probably keep me tired for a couple days. Will just buy some locally tomorrow.

DAC
 
I agree Chris. At one time I was doing custom painted covered hopper train cars in HO scale.. Lot of the elevators owned their own cars and had them painted so they could easily recognize them. Train guys got to collecting them and the demand far exceeded the supply. I bought a case of 24 unpainted covered hoppers from Athearn and did the custom painting and lettering then sold the cars for twice what the original one sold for. Usually only 2 or 3 at a time though but that was enough.
 
Holy smokes! I don't know how you have the patience to do all those cars. They look great but after I did the first half dozen you'd have to peel me off the ceiling. Never been good at repetitive work.
I had to learn that kind of patience and focus to be a sign painter Chris. Actually, it wasn't the same thing over and over. The vinyl cutter did that part. I had to make fast decisions on colors. I wanted each car to have it's own color identity.
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I agree Chris. At one time I was doing custom painted covered hopper train cars in HO scale.. Lot of the elevators owned their own cars and had them painted so they could easily recognize them. Train guys got to collecting them and the demand far exceeded the supply. I bought a case of 24 unpainted covered hoppers from Athearn and did the custom painting and lettering then sold the cars for twice what the original one sold for. Usually only 2 or 3 at a time though but that was enough.
Sounds like that was an interesting job, building those hopper cars, Roger. I would dig seeing pictures of them. I've got some HO scale rail road stuff, but nothing custom. Maybe I will build a layout someday, combined with slot cars. I have a "Special Edition" Dale Earnhardt HO train set that I have never set up.

Got into town and bought U-Joints at O'Wrongley's as Kris Golden (Gtractor) used to call them when he was on the tractor forums. Got Spicer with a lifetime warranty. The rear dive shaft is done. Just heating that plastic retainer out wasn't enough. I had to get them hot with the torch and blow air into the little holes to make it squirt out the other side. Never dealt with that kind of a u-joint before. At least the new ones have c-clips and grease zirks.
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It was a bit of a battle but blowing the air into the holes did the trick. Giant mess on the welding table---LOL!
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Transmission end done and greased.
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Was able to use the lightweight HF jack to raise a rear wheel enough to turn the differential yoke so only had to stuff the driveshaft into the transmission one time. That little jack has been one of the best tools I ever bought at HF! I haven't figured out how to leave the transmission in neutral without leaving the accessories power on. Suppose I could have disconnected the battery. It's in. Front one tomorrow.
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DAC
 
I had to learn that kind of patience and focus to be a sign painter Chris. Actually, it wasn't the same thing over and over. The vinyl cutter did that part. I had to make fast decisions on colors. I wanted each car to have it's own color identity.
View attachment 73781


Sounds like that was an interesting job, building those hopper cars, Roger. I would dig seeing pictures of them. I've got some HO scale rail road stuff, but nothing custom. Maybe I will build a layout someday, combined with slot cars. I have a "Special Edition" Dale Earnhardt HO train set that I have never set up.

Got into town and bought U-Joints at O'Wrongley's as Kris Golden (Gtractor) used to call them when he was on the tractor forums. Got Spicer with a lifetime warranty. The rear dive shaft is done. Just heating that plastic retainer out wasn't enough. I had to get them hot with the torch and blow air into the little holes to make it squirt out the other side. Never dealt with that kind of a u-joint before. At least the new ones have c-clips and grease zirks.
View attachment 73782 View attachment 73783

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It was a bit of a battle but blowing the air into the holes did the trick. Giant mess on the welding table---LOL!
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Transmission end done and greased.
View attachment 73788

Was able to use the lightweight HF jack to raise a rear wheel enough to turn the differential yoke so only had to stuff the driveshaft into the transmission one time. That little jack has been one of the best tools I ever bought at HF! I haven't figured out how to leave the transmission in neutral without leaving the accessories power on. Suppose I could have disconnected the battery. It's in. Front one tomorrow.
View attachment 73789 View attachment 73790

DAC
Trying to vision what or how those old u-joints came apart. Never worked on one of that type. Sound like a pita. You couldn't just pound them apart or press apart ?
 
I think the only thing left in HO that I have is a brass steam engine a deceased friends wife gave me. The old gent never seen it run as the back trucks came apart and he could not get them back together again. I built most of his layout for him. Then after he passed his wife wanted me to take it down and wrap all the cars, engines, etc. and box them up for his sone to have. That is when she gave be that brass engine. 4-8-8-2 with 10 wheel tender. Take big curves to run one like that. I'l see if I happen to have an photos of the hopper cars I did.
 
Trying to vision what or how those old u-joints came apart. Never worked on one of that type. Sound like a pita. You couldn't just pound them apart or press apart ?
The U joint caps are held in with a form of Loctite that is injected at the factory - the stuff they use holds them tight and you might bend or distort the yoke ears if you tried to remove the joint without melting the plastic first. Much quicker and more reliable than installing conventional C clips that are used on the aftermarket U joints when the vehicles were being mass produced at the factory. Driveshaft can be spun during manufacture to make sure joint is perfectly centered in yoke and adjusted while product is curing if the joint is off just a smidge to reduce vibration during warranty period.

A word of caution if you are ever trying to remove the Loctite product by heating it with a torch. The method does work and I have seen many done that way but I have also experienced first hand where the U joint cap can fly off while heating. I was installing new U joints as preventative maintenance on an 89 Caprice that still had the original front joint at 312000 km's and the joint was still working ok but I like joints that you can grease. Was heating the caps with a torch and the plastic had just started to ooze out when one of the caps flew off and hit me right square in the chest - was only wearing a T shirt as it was a hot summers evening. Left a nice red burn circle where it caught me and the area was quite tender for several days. I figure that the grease that was left inside the joint created enough pressure to pop the cap. If you are heating up that style of U joint cap wear eye protection and some sort of protective equipment in case something similar occurs would be my suggestion to anyone tackling one.
 
Trying to vision what or how those old u-joints came apart. Never worked on one of that type. Sound like a pita. You couldn't just pound them apart or press apart ?
I will put some pictures below, Bill. Stew had a good write up there on his experience!

I think the only thing left in HO that I have is a brass steam engine a deceased friends wife gave me. The old gent never seen it run as the back trucks came apart and he could not get them back together again. I built most of his layout for him. Then after he passed his wife wanted me to take it down and wrap all the cars, engines, etc. and box them up for his sone to have. That is when she gave be that brass engine. 4-8-8-2 with 10 wheel tender. Take big curves to run one like that. I'l see if I happen to have an photos of the hopper cars I did.
4-8-8-2 is big no matter what scale, Roger! Darn near the same as the "Big Boy"! That massive locomotive is 4-8-8-4! I think Big Boy is the biggest steam engine locomotive ever built? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Sounds like a very cool HO engine!

Me too Chris! I made decals for a few years, but not tiny like that!
I've also never dealt with that type of "plastic retainer" u-joint. Seems like triple the work to replace! And you poked my memory... what happened to Gtractor? Hope he's still with us!
I started learning some of this tiny vinyl cutting back in the mid-1990's, doing custom diecast and slot cars. Had plenty of struggles figuring out what might or probably wont cut at .15 to .3 inch tall. Then I had to learn a new vinyl cutter 3 years ago, but I think it does a better job than my old one after working with it for awhile.

Yeah Kris hasn't been around this forum for a long time now too. I think he is friends with Lowell. Perhaps he knows what has happened to him.

The U joint caps are held in with a form of Loctite that is injected at the factory - the stuff they use holds them tight and you might bend or distort the yoke ears if you tried to remove the joint without melting the plastic first. Much quicker and more reliable than installing conventional C clips that are used on the aftermarket U joints when the vehicles were being mass produced at the factory. Driveshaft can be spun during manufacture to make sure joint is perfectly centered in yoke and adjusted while product is curing if the joint is off just a smidge to reduce vibration during warranty period.

A word of caution if you are ever trying to remove the Loctite product by heating it with a torch. The method does work and I have seen many done that way but I have also experienced first hand where the U joint cap can fly off while heating. I was installing new U joints as preventative maintenance on an 89 Caprice that still had the original front joint at 312000 km's and the joint was still working ok but I like joints that you can grease. Was heating the caps with a torch and the plastic had just started to ooze out when one of the caps flew off and hit me right square in the chest - was only wearing a T shirt as it was a hot summers evening. Left a nice red burn circle where it caught me and the area was quite tender for several days. I figure that the grease that was left inside the joint created enough pressure to pop the cap. If you are heating up that style of U joint cap wear eye protection and some sort of protective equipment in case something similar occurs would be my suggestion to anyone tackling one.
Wow, Stew! Sounds like that would be like getting hit with a slug in a 12ga shotgun! Glad you weren't seriously hurt! I wore my welding helmet with it in "grind" mode while heating the yokes, and sat in front of the joints rather than beside them. The grease seals did blow up on a few of them almost making me go change shorts but it didn't quite have to---LOL! There were only 2 caps out of the four u-joints I replaced that had no grease in them.

The front driveshaft is done now too. I have to put the truck in neutral and jack a tire to grease the two differential joints yet but will do that tomorrow, both at the same time.

Here's some pics for the guys that never dealt with these dang things before. This was my first time too!

Those little white things are where the plastic was injected or vented.
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The plastic retainer is oozing out.
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This came out of one joint, two caps worth.
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While still hot i blew air through the holes. Lots more would come out.
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Then they would press out like a "normal" U-joint.
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Those grooves in the caps and yoke were filled with that plastic before heating and blowing them out.
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Another joint done.
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And back in the truck with the front shaft.
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I pulled the drain plug and oil filter to change that while on the lift too. Will finish that and do a lube on everything tomorrow.

I sure appreciate the comments and thoughts on these posts, guys!

DAC
 
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