And more junk.

Thought it took an Allen wrench.
It did. But the tool had a handle and a flexible shaft.


Noel
This is the tool Noel is talking about except somehow decades ago I broke the handle off---LOL! Looked like a screwdriver handle.
DSCN5798.JPG

The brake caliper removal sucks---LOL! Yes!!---Hamlin just hit the wall hard---LOL! Anyway back to tractors. Had to disassemble a lot more than I was hoping, then it still was hard to maneuver the caliper out.
DSCN5789.JPG DSCN5790.JPG

DSCN5793.JPG DSCN5795.JPG

The push pins were frozen into the caliper after it finally came out but they punched out ok.
DSCN5796.JPG

I need to get the rotor out too as the half moon key is gone and there is something stuck in the brake pad cavity on the transaxle, probably a worn down pad. Of course there is an obstacle. The pin that limits the movement of the arm on the caliper is just long enough to keep the rotor from pulling off. Thinking about cutting it off a bit as it appears to be much longer than needed.
DSCN5800.JPG DSCN5801.JPG

I'm guessing that the dealer would pull the transaxle out just to change the brake pads!

Also went to install the missing axle nut and washer and noticed the washer didn't seat against the hub. Pulled it back off and found wire wrapped around the axle that I didn't see first. Unwrapped that then it went on like it should!
DSCN5791.JPG DSCN5792.JPG

DAC
 
Those brakes are the worst to work on! The designers could have easily made more room!
Kind of a nightmare, Daniel! Guess I can see why the PO never fixed the brake! To install your dipstick tube, it looks like it will require the 3 point and all of the rear PTO mechanism to be removed. Problem there is, this pulley got welded on at some point. Not sure if I'm going to tackle that right now. It is welded on the driven end too, and the bearing is bad on the driven end also!
DSCN5799.JPG

This thing was really used and abused at one time.

DAC
 
I bet those brake pucks are the same as on the MTD line of tractors in that size range.
Very possible, Roger! I may have a line on a pair already.

I wonder if you can cut the dipstick tube and inch or so above the NPT threads, thread in the short piece, then join the two with hose and clamps? I know it's tight back there too.
It may come to something that drastic, Daniel! Thinking about cutting the rear pto stuff off and selling some bits and pieces since I have no rear driven equipment anyway, and no plans for any.

DAC
 
Very possible, Roger! I may have a line on a pair already.


It may come to something that drastic, Daniel! Thinking about cutting the rear pto stuff off and selling some bits and pieces since I have no rear driven equipment anyway, and no plans for any.

DAC
Now that I think about it I think Snapper used those same type pucks on their rear engine mowers.
 
I have a couple old parts tractors that might still have brake parts. I'll check tomorrow.
Ted-ESBBent is sending me the backing plate for the caliper pins to push on so I think all I will need are the new pucks. Possibly will have a couple of them coming. I would need the half-moon key but it shouldn't be too hard to find one. I know I don't have any though. I don't know what is in or missing in the transaxle cavity yet until I work up the guts to trim that pin to pull off the rotor.

Just typing here I have 90% decided to remove the rear pto stuff and sell some pieces or all of it.---LOL!

DAC
 
Kind of a nightmare, Daniel! Guess I can see why the PO never fixed the brake! To install your dipstick tube, it looks like it will require the 3 point and all of the rear PTO mechanism to be removed. Problem there is, this pulley got welded on at some point. Not sure if I'm going to tackle that right now. It is welded on the driven end too, and the bearing is bad on the driven end also!
View attachment 74787

This thing was really used and abused at one time.

DAC
Gotta be the same guy....
1698061680962.png
 
Ted-ESBBent is sending me the backing plate for the caliper pins to push on so I think all I will need are the new pucks. Possibly will have a couple of them coming. I would need the half-moon key but it shouldn't be too hard to find one. I know I don't have any though. I don't know what is in or missing in the transaxle cavity yet until I work up the guts to trim that pin to pull off the rotor.

Just typing here I have 90% decided to remove the rear pto stuff and sell some pieces or all of it.---LOL!

DAC
Check your mail box on Thursday, maybe Friday.:thumbs:
 
Check your mail box on Thursday, maybe Friday.:thumbs:
Thank-you Rick! I wasn't going to mention names until I heard from you.

Rick has the new brake pucks! I should have everything then except the half moon key.

The backing plate and a used brake puck from Ted got here today. The measurements of the used puck match what Rick sent! Forgot to take a pic, and they are in a tray on the lift. Lift is up in the air with my wife's car under it. Checking it out for hail damage for an insurance claim.

Before I raised the lift I got out the reciprocating saw and cut that dang peg back to remove the rotor. It and the transaxle shaft look to be in good shape.
DSCN5802.JPG

DSCN5803.JPG

I decided to order one of those rim clamp bead breakers for busting down tires. A couple of trips to a tire shop would cost more than the tool at 55 bucks. There were a couple of cheaper ones but they didn't look quite as well made.


DAC
 
Glad you’re getting things worked out. I got my Swisher trail mower from a friend and found out later he welded up two of the three spindle nuts on. I was fortunate his weld never penetrated the shaft much and was able to clean it up to put a nut back on.

That bead breaker looks like a nice one. It’s got a five star rating and seller has almost 40k feedbacks. I’ll have to put one of them in my cart for Christmas. Nice going Doug.
 
Boy that's an ugly looking mess. Don't ya just hate running into cobbled up stuff like that?
Can't say much Chris, my welding ain't much prettier---LOL! In a way, I don't blame whoever did that. I looks like all those splined shafts on this era of tractors are the weak link in them.

Glad you’re getting things worked out. I got my Swisher trail mower from a friend and found out later he welded up two of the three spindle nuts on. I was fortunate his weld never penetrated the shaft much and was able to clean it up to put a nut back on.

That bead breaker looks like a nice one. It’s got a five star rating and seller has almost 40k feedbacks. I’ll have to put one of them in my cart for Christmas. Nice going Doug.
I had to do that once many years ago, before I even had a welder. It is on that little MTD in my avatar. I hit a rock mowing and along with breaking the blades, it stripped the splines on one of the deck spindle gear boxes. Had a friend weld it back together so I could keep mowing. That was probably in the late 1980's. Won't ever mow with it again if I dig it out of the shed and play with it someday. Thanks, Jim! Hope that bead breaker will do ok. Might be here by the weekend.

Didn't do any tractor work today. Listed the 2004 "Heep" for sale on FB and been paying some attention to that after my phone meeting with Farmers Insurance on the hail damage on Loree's Equinox. They wanted me to video the damage with a phone. Told them that I can't video with a phone so now I get to do it the old fashioned way. Taking it to a body shop tomorrow after PT. Will get them to send in an estimate, and since I know the family that has the body shop they will get the work. Sounds like the soonest it can get worked on is December 18th. That's fine. Loree can drive the Denali and I'll drive one of the old trucks sitting around here.

Guess I can post a few update pics on non-tractor projects I did. A week ago Sunday we drove through Faith, SD where Loree's grandparents are buried. Some of you may remember I sandblasted new headstones for their graves. Loree's uncle and stepfather who installed them didn't take pictures, so we got some.

The old ones were getting hard to read.
DSCN4502.JPG

The new ones just lay flush. I don't know how they fastened them down but I'm guessing epoxy. The slab on the right is new also.
DSCN5750.JPG DSCN5755.JPG

Then that big slot car race was last Sunday and here are a few pics from that. No I didn't race even though I was invited.
The track and some of the trophys.
394272511_660870882797164_3759864559287582641_n.jpg 394681133_660870272797225_5685952536210129080_n.jpg

Some of the cars I lettered and a group pic of the racers.
395675166_660870256130560_6146958842274588529_n.jpg 393783287_660870942797158_4711282168181960759_n.jpg

DAC
 
I sure used to like slot car racing. We were lucky and had a nice track not far from where I grew up. If I remember correctly it was 25 cents an hour to use the track and had 6 lanes. I think if there was one around here I'd still be doing it. There was something invigorating about pushing down that plunger with your thumb and seeing the car take off.
 
Last edited:
Th grave stones look good and will last a long time. I know a few stone masons and some of the epoxy they use is far better than mortar.

Me and two other guys grew up together. We all had slot car tracks but one of my friends dad had a four lane HO scale track that was huge. We were only allowed to race on that supervised. We had a local 1/24th scale track at our local hobby shop about 15 minutes by bicycle from home. Like Chris mentioned it was 25 cents an hour. We had to have our own controllers that plugged into their tracks. The most popular controller was the Cox brand. The cars now days are so fast it’s hard to see them racing.
 
I sure used to like slot car racing. We were lucky and had a nice track not far from where I grew up. If I remember correctly it was 25 cents an hour to use the track and had 6 lanes. I think if there was one around here I'd still be doing it. There was something invigorating about pushing down that plunger with your thumb and seeing the car take off.

I know what you mean, Chris, push that plunger and all of a sudden you are in control of a very fast piece of equipment that you have actually worked to pay for! Spent all my money I got fixing and painting fences for our trailer park owner on a bicycle one summer then slot cars and model cars the rest of the childhood summers before 1972. I actually got some slot car stuff pretty cheap and free lap time at a big 1/24th scale track downtown. Mom was recently divorced, and the owner of the track was kind of sweet on her! Lucky me!

Nowadays all the controllers are pistol grip type, with a big heat sink and knobs sticking out of the top of them.

Quite a track Doug. Lots of trophy’s. Grave stones are looking good. Would quite a job to fix the hail damage on the car.

Noel
Thanks, Noel. That track was factory built by the biggest HO Scale car manufacturer back in the '60's and '70's, Aurora. My brother-in-law owns one of those tracks too, and it is the same one that was at the hobby shop we raced at as kids.

A little over 2500 bucks damage to her car. It will go into the body shop December 18th.

Th grave stones look good and will last a long time. I know a few stone masons and some of the epoxy they use is far better than mortar.

Me and two other guys grew up together. We all had slot car tracks but one of my friends dad had a four lane HO scale track that was huge. We were only allowed to race on that supervised. We had a local 1/24th scale track at our local hobby shop about 15 minutes by bicycle from home. Like Chris mentioned it was 25 cents an hour. We had to have our own controllers that plugged into their tracks. The most popular controller was the Cox brand. The cars now days are so fast it’s hard to see them racing.
The epoxy should work fine, long as water doesn't get under the granite somewhere, freezing and cracking them. I wanted to help in installation and removal of the old ones but Loree's hardheaded 82-year-old uncle wouldn't tell me when he was going up there. He just said "you done enough". Next thing I knew they were done!

That sounds like me and my friend back in the day, Jim! He had the paper route and I did work like I said above. That friend became my brother in law in the early '80's. The 1/24th track was our main race place as our plan was start with HO's, move up to 1/24th, then eventually on to real race cars! We even did it! We could rent the controllers if we didn't buy one, and of course both of those hobby shops had large inventories of cars and parts. In the 1990's Tyco made HO scale cars we would call "No Seeums" as with the magnetic downforce and choosing the right tire diameters, they were darn hard to see they were so fast! Getting the right tire sizes was the trick though. Sometimes you wouldn't even know your car was de-slotted until it hit a wall or the floor, or another driver---LOL! This is one of them.
DSCN5827.JPG

DSCN5828.JPG

The body shop I took Loree's car to today is right next door to the local bearing and seal store here. I figured it would be nice and easy to swing in there and buy the half-moon key. Nope they had nothing that size. I just thought heck with it and went to HF and bought a box of metric ones in hopes that something would fit.

DSCN5818.JPG DSCN5819.JPG

Got lucky and found a size that fits well.
DSCN5820.JPG

The rotor will float back and forth nicely.

Now there may be another big problem! There is nothing stuck in the brake puck cavity. Evidently the rotor wore down the lip around it. Thre isn't much meat to hold the puck in there. Looks like it may get some JB Weld to hold it in the hole!
DSCN5825.JPG

If it ain't one thing, it's another!

DAC
 
Back
Top