Craftsman 917.273100 2000 Estate find
- Thread starter larrybl
- Start date
. So I just ordered $170.00 in parts for the Craftsman Pro from Jacks small engine and didn't think twice about it. I may have a problem with priorities.
I found the fill hole, sealed! Should be able to fill it from the vent hose.
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Larry, aren't those "tire jacks" the bomb! They take off tires from tiny GT fronts to full size rear farm tractor tires off so painlessly!
Yes! and my neighbor was so impressed when he had to break down his farm Tractor tire that he bought one also.
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Got a great reply from JP Savage from the other site.....
Larry,
I have a 218-3010 transaxle in my Craftsman GT.
Part number is 150073 on the sticker. P/N 140343 is a newer sub number I found in parts search. Which then subs to 163198.
Wait to change oil until you have the transaxle back in place. Air pressure equal in tires. Tractor sitting as it will usually be driven.
Easier to fill with fender pan off. But can move vent hose out the back to fill if fender pan is in place. May have to set up some lumber, wire and such to hold funnel in place so you do not have to. I have done it both ways.
I change oil and filter every 2 years.
Drain by removing the lowest hose connection from brass fitting on bottom of trans. Will have to cut the band that holds the hose on, then replace with a gear drive hose clamp.
Fill through the upper vent hose. Work it out and up so you can access the top of it. Remove plastic vent cap, and use a funnel that fits into hose.
Even with oil level port cap removed, it goes in slow. Replace vent cap when done.
Oil level port cap is a 1/4" hex (Allen) wrench.
Oil Volume: models 163198, 150073, 140343 67 fl . oz. / 2.09375 qt. (1981 ml)
Oil capacity 2.09 quarts. 67 fl ozs. Retains half a quart when drained. Once drained add 45oz (Or a little more) to fill, then purge.
Wait for a thin stream of oil to drain out the level port. I made the mistake the first time I changed oil of seeing 2 or 3 drips come out and thought it was full. Wrong. Had to add about 8 oz more to fill it when I checked it after 1st purge.
Before you screw the new filter on, you can take the filter mounting bracket off. Just loosen the bolts, lift the bracket. Is held on by key hole slots. This will allow you to drop the filter mount down and hold it level. Fill the filter with oil before you screw it back in place. Then put the mount back on the trans. Finish tightening. Use a film of fresh oil on the filter seal before screwing it on.
Not sure filling the filter is necessary. Just something I do.
Use the right filter.
They are a suction filter, meaning the oil is sucked out the center pipe, and drains back into filter through the side holes.
A car filter is a pressure filter. Pressure oil in through the center hole, oil flows out through the side holes.
Suction filter needs extra metal bracing in center of filter to keep it from collapsing in on itself. I cut one open one time and you can see the extra center tube.
A car filter will collapse, block all oil flow, or by pass in filter will open, so you never realize the filter is no longer working.
I use Hydro-Gear Filter P/N 51563.
Expensive at the car parts places. $30.00 to $40.00 each. Car parts places will also try to sell you a sub number that is not a suction filter. They just go by thread size and size of filter OD and length.
51563 are $10.00 to $12.00 each if you find a deal.
I have found them on Ebay 2 or 3 in a lot for the cheaper $10.00 each price. Plus freight.
I use 15w-50 Synthetic Mobil one engine oil in mine. Seems to work well even in the winter months.
I'll send you an invoice for 2 cents when I get all my other projects done.
Larry,
I have a 218-3010 transaxle in my Craftsman GT.
Part number is 150073 on the sticker. P/N 140343 is a newer sub number I found in parts search. Which then subs to 163198.
Wait to change oil until you have the transaxle back in place. Air pressure equal in tires. Tractor sitting as it will usually be driven.
Easier to fill with fender pan off. But can move vent hose out the back to fill if fender pan is in place. May have to set up some lumber, wire and such to hold funnel in place so you do not have to. I have done it both ways.
I change oil and filter every 2 years.
Drain by removing the lowest hose connection from brass fitting on bottom of trans. Will have to cut the band that holds the hose on, then replace with a gear drive hose clamp.
Fill through the upper vent hose. Work it out and up so you can access the top of it. Remove plastic vent cap, and use a funnel that fits into hose.
Even with oil level port cap removed, it goes in slow. Replace vent cap when done.
Oil level port cap is a 1/4" hex (Allen) wrench.
Oil Volume: models 163198, 150073, 140343 67 fl . oz. / 2.09375 qt. (1981 ml)
Oil capacity 2.09 quarts. 67 fl ozs. Retains half a quart when drained. Once drained add 45oz (Or a little more) to fill, then purge.
Wait for a thin stream of oil to drain out the level port. I made the mistake the first time I changed oil of seeing 2 or 3 drips come out and thought it was full. Wrong. Had to add about 8 oz more to fill it when I checked it after 1st purge.
Before you screw the new filter on, you can take the filter mounting bracket off. Just loosen the bolts, lift the bracket. Is held on by key hole slots. This will allow you to drop the filter mount down and hold it level. Fill the filter with oil before you screw it back in place. Then put the mount back on the trans. Finish tightening. Use a film of fresh oil on the filter seal before screwing it on.
Not sure filling the filter is necessary. Just something I do.
Use the right filter.
They are a suction filter, meaning the oil is sucked out the center pipe, and drains back into filter through the side holes.
A car filter is a pressure filter. Pressure oil in through the center hole, oil flows out through the side holes.
Suction filter needs extra metal bracing in center of filter to keep it from collapsing in on itself. I cut one open one time and you can see the extra center tube.
A car filter will collapse, block all oil flow, or by pass in filter will open, so you never realize the filter is no longer working.
I use Hydro-Gear Filter P/N 51563.
Expensive at the car parts places. $30.00 to $40.00 each. Car parts places will also try to sell you a sub number that is not a suction filter. They just go by thread size and size of filter OD and length.
51563 are $10.00 to $12.00 each if you find a deal.
I have found them on Ebay 2 or 3 in a lot for the cheaper $10.00 each price. Plus freight.
I use 15w-50 Synthetic Mobil one engine oil in mine. Seems to work well even in the winter months.
I'll send you an invoice for 2 cents when I get all my other projects done.
I feel so much better now knowing the filter and fluid change will be easy. Paint on the other hand is giving me a fit. The left over high quality Fred's enamel paint I have is taking forever to dry in this humidity. This part was left out over night and... well, the paint was still wet when this happened. I brought them into the A/C to hopefully dry quicker. I am thinking of switching back to the cheaper quick dry enamel. I have some errands to run, hopefully I can get back to painting this afternoon.
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Tried to clean up the paw prints with a light sanding. Guess this will be a permanent mark. Finished ordering 1/2 the replacement parts needed, and painting 1/2 of the gloss black parts. Need to let these harden and touch up when I turn them over as they were tacky when I brought them out of the humidity. Plan to work on the rims in the evenings this work week. Chilling out this evening smelling the paint drying.
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If you have a 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder a 3" cup brush will make short work of it. I have a DeWalt cup brush that has served me well for about 3 yrs with little loss of wires.
Mike
Mike
I was using a cup brush on the drill, getting tired of chasing the rim around (Holding with one hand). Looking into trying one of these and the pressure washer. I will need to pick up some rubber gloves and a full face shield. Still less than a blast cabinet.
Rust-Oleum Automotive 255448 $49.00
Goof Off FG651 Professional Strength Remover, 4.5-Ounce $19.98
VHT SP575 Strip Fast Aggressive Paint Remover - 11 oz $19.46
Rust-Oleum Automotive 255448 $49.00
Goof Off FG651 Professional Strength Remover, 4.5-Ounce $19.98
VHT SP575 Strip Fast Aggressive Paint Remover - 11 oz $19.46
Larry, where did you buy the bead breaker and what's the name of it? Looks like it does a great job on any size tires.
Think I'll try this, for $12.97 I don't have much to loose. Klean-Strip 1 qt. Premium Paint Remover and Stripper-QKPS301 - The Home Depot
Reviews look promising.
Reviews look promising.
I read good reviews on this stripper for $14.00 a qt. got some great tips, Don't use it on plastic table tops, I was going to do this on the plastic table, but will clear off the old wood one and try it there. And it will ruin shoes if stepped in or dropped on, I guess I should ditch the sandals and wear shoes for this. Shade needs to move there before I try this.
