Craftsman 917.273100 2000 Estate find

Looked on-line for a new head light lens, Only ones available was Epay used, $50. and $65. I went to ACE and bought this for $23. I am on my third cycle of wet sanding with 2500 grit, and buffing with headlight restorer. It is looking better. I guess a couple more days of this it should turn out respectable. The other thing I am trying to tackle (locate) is fixing the seat safety switch. I have a good switch but still looking for the plastic connector. I have the terminals and pretty sure I have the connector housing somewhere.
 

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Looked on-line for a new head light lens, Only ones available was Epay used, $50. and $65. I went to ACE and bought this for $23. I am on my third cycle of wet sanding with 2500 grit, and buffing with headlight restorer. It is looking better. I guess a couple more days of this it should turn out respectable. The other thing I am trying to tackle (locate) is fixing the seat safety switch. I have a good switch but still looking for the plastic connector. I have the terminals and pretty sure I have the connector housing somewhere.

The blue 3000-4000 pad will get the last little bit of fog out, but the lens's starting out clear again helps make the whole package come to life in the end, it's worth it.

I have the same drill press, of course a floor press would be great, but I've been happy with the results of that little press, especially being able to get those slow drill speeds for steel without burning through bits.:)
 
The Positive terminal was in bad shape and needed replaced. I cut the old one off with the dremel, and wire brushed the wires. Crimped the new connector on, then soldered and heat0shrinked. This should do the trick now.
 

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Some minor details I skipped over (I am not a professional). I couldn't find a connector to fit the seat safety switch, but did find two single connectors that work. This may work well as the bar that actuates this switch under the seat is missing. I may have to convert to a lever switch later on. I relied heavily on a tear down picture to get the wire harness back in place.
 

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I may have that bar.
Well the bar is 9" X 2 1/2 but there are other issues. Looks like the PO drilled out the pan to fit larger unknown hardware. Hulk II and RED have the same setup, BOH is different and may be the method I try with a micro switch.
 

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Call me cheap.... I had some tine to kill today so I stopped at Ace Hardware. Usually when I go there I have a specific Item I am looking for. Ask a floor rep, go straight to it, buy and leave. Today I just leisurely browsed the aisles. I was impressed with the selection they have there, shouldn't have been surprised as they usually have that odd ball part I am needing. I was looking at their silver brazing solder and flux kit around $25 for a small quantity, I commented on how expensive it was. The Sales rep ask what I was trying to do, and I told him about the cracks on the tractor tin I was trying to repair. He showed me this 4-pk of braising rods $5.99 and I picked up a new bottle of propane $2.99. I'll practice a bit but with only 1,600* of heat needed and says 50-60,000 psi bond this may do the trick and I can quit bothering the neighbor. If it doesn't work I am only out $5.99, I can still use the propane. Yes I plan to sand these down good and drill a small hole to stop the cracks. Off to watch some brasing videos.
 

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All right, I guess another trip to town. Fail 1, I need a cheep angle grinder, wire brush sucks. 2 propane torch not getting to 1,600* of heat needed. I can't get this stuff to melt. I think if it does, it will work. Hate to spend $$$ on MAP and it not work too.
 

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Crap, just looked this up. It should work, I may have a bad torch head.
Propane Torch Temperature

Propane torches work the best for small soldering or heating jobs because of their portability. While propane-oxygen combinations can reach a maximum temperature of 3,623 degrees F, or 1,995 degrees C, a propane-butane torch only goes up to 2237 degrees F, 1225 degrees C. A torch flame consists of two cones, an outer light blue flame and an inner dark blue flame. The hottest point in the flame can be found at the tip of the inner flame.
 
I place the tip of the welding rod directly at the tip on the inner flame cone and can get it to glow, and bubbles slightly but not melt. Torch is wide open. Back to YT.
 
Guess I am going to learn a new skill, Braising.
Bought the kit, and extra sticks, gas, and flux, and threw in a HF angle grinder. Need to find some scrap tin to practice on. Supposed to be in the 70's tomorrow, 68* out side right now.
 

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Not wanting to sound like the doubting thomas I didn't state my doubts. With that wide a flame if it melted the brass it would cover quite an area each side of the crack. A mig with small solid wire would do best for this. A small O/A welding tip with brass or steel rod in the right hands would do well too.
I was referring to the propane torch. I hope this works as well as my O/A setup.
Mike
 
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