MF 1450

JDJake said:
Doug, as far as I know, any Kohler engine painted flat gray is a replacement engine, at least in JD machines. My 314 has one.
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I painted it the flat gray, Jake, it was kinda greenish looking before that.
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I will confess, being a cheap a$$, I used up an almost empty can of flat black BBQ grill paint on the block. It really looks gray in the pics, especially contrasted to the satin black I'm painting everything else with. I also figured oil leaks will show up easier on flat paint than the semi or full gloss paint. Maybe I should have disguised leaks with the luck I've had on this engine!

DAC
 
The engine is back in the hole where it should be.
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Probably going to have to hack right side panel of the hood up for the muffler discharge. I have actually considered cutting the side panels off of both sides since the tractor is far beyond restorable. The other two MF's I have don't need no stinkin' side panels, why should this one?--LOL!

Now need to cut cables to fit, hook up the wiring and I better sand and paint the air cleaner housing I got from Kenny!

I bought one of those Lisle spark checkers, not very long ago, and do you think I can find it?---LOL! I suffer from CRS!

DAC
 
Getting very close to firing this "sort of" overhauled K321 up for break-in. Basically, hook the battery up, put gas in the tank and try it. Had enough ambition after work to tinker while the race was on.
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Cables were a bit of a battle but finally got that figured out. The choke cable would not bend into the cable clamp on the blower housing on the inside. Worked well on the outside. Throttle and choke controls seem to work fine!

Installed the gas tank and routed the fuel line along with hooking up all the wiring. I didn't forget the coupler for the driveshaft either, yesterday when the engine went in the chassis.
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Weather may not co-operate tomorrow for starting it dang it!

DAC
 
Hey Noel, I have a reason for the spring being in the bottom hole. Might be a lame reason but it is how I tried it. I had it on the third hole up when I first got the engine running with the new governor spring. Everyone did recommend what you are saying and the manual as well. My problem is that this tractor seems to have "hair trigger" throttle response. I move the throttle on the dash only maybe 3/4" from idle to full throttle. I tried to get more swing to slow up that action a bit. It may have helped a bit but there still isn't much lever movement from idle to full throttle. Maybe I am thinking backwards though. I tend to be dyslexic at times.

DAC
 
Got it running this afternoon. I cost myself some time thinking the solenoid had failed. I wold jump the posts on it and it would crank the engine, but the switch wouldn't. I dug up another solenoid, wired it in and and the same thing. I went ahead and hooked the battery charger to it for a while and then it cranked normally. Battery voltage said 13.2 but it still needed help I guess.

Went ahead and fired it up and it started well with a bit of ether. Tried to dial it in to 2,000 RPM as Noel suggested but that touchy throttle that I discussed with him, about 2200 is where the rings got broke in at!

Ran smooth the whole time, but it doesn't look like it's charging again. Idled it down and the engine still runs smooth but shakes fairly hard. Oh well it won't idle much any way. Shut it off and checked oil and just looked the engine over with a flash light and things seem ok.
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So, after that, it had to go to work. I needed to drag in a LT that I'm going to try to get working properly for a friend.
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I go "on call" tomorrow so won't be much progress on anything for a while.

DAC
 
JDJake said:
The K321 and K341 tend to shake pretty good at low idle, especially the K341. You can adjust the small screw on the throttle butterfly and bump the idle up to smooth the shakes out.
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It felt more like a balance issue than carb adjustment, Jake. I may have been trying to let it idle too low though. The reflective tape slung off of the clutch at some point so I couldn't check rpms any more.

DAC
 
Yaaaae you got it running. Booooo your going on call.
And you got to use it too for its intended purpose. 2200 is alright Doug any thing around that would work. Idle is 1200 rpm. But it can be what ever you want and where it runs smoothest.
I think they tend to shake more at idle if late in timing too.

Noel
 
Looking at the first pic in post #703, is there a way to hook the spring down closer to the pivot. That may help with the touchy throttle condition if it can be done. I got a screenshot of that connection to help explain things.
Screenshot from 2022-03-22 04-43-27.jpg
If the spring is attached in the top hole of item #5 in the pic, move it to the bottom (4 holes on the left side). That way it will pull slower on the spring as you move the throttle handle.
 
Cvans said:
How close is that black wire to that spring. Just looking at the photo it looks like it is almost touching.
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If it is my picture you are referring to, you must mean about where the fuel line hides it, Chris? That's about where it curves to go between the flywheel plate and the block to go to the other side of the engine. It is no closer than 3/4" or so to the spring.

DAC
 
Got the head torqued again tonight, and started sanding the air filter housing for a quick paint job. Looks like the housing had some MF red on it before the black!

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Also checked the rear tires for air leaks on that LT I drug in the other night. Guess this explains why the RR goes flat so fast. LR looks to have a tube in it.
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DAC
 
jason silliker said:
Are you shaving that tire Doug lol?
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Sure looks like it, Jason---LOL!

Might be able to tube that one too but will check into tires. I would like all four tires up while I'm working on this tractor to see if it is repairable. Biggest issue is the blades won't disengage.

Too tired after work tonight to work in the shop. Temp was nice outside but that wind was brutal. Beat the crap out of me.

DAC
 
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