MF 1450

Just another tip for you Doug. The screw that I circled in the picture, if it’s to long it will jam the choke rod and choke will not operate. Happened to me once. May not apply to yours thou. Any way, just another helpful tip for you.

Noel
 

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Just another tip for you Doug. The screw that I circled in the picture, if it’s to long it will jam the choke rod and choke will not operate. Happened to me once. May not apply to yours thou. Any way, just another helpful tip for you.

Noel
Yep, had that happen to me a couple times. Took some head scratching to figure out what happened.
 
I'll give you a tip Doug, when you go to put the base plate on and go to put the breather tube in, you'll find needle nose pliers are your friend. Also, pay attention to the length, I had a couple that were too long.
Well, I ordered a tube. Pretty expensive 3.8" long chunk of rubber hose at a few cents under 20 bucks but I'd just as soon not have oil blowing out either. None of them gave exact measurements and if the serial number tag on this engine was legible, I may have been able to have a little more confidence it's the correct 20 dollar chunk of rubber! We'll see when it gets here!

DAC
 
Just another tip for you Doug. The screw that I circled in the picture, if it’s to long it will jam the choke rod and choke will not operate. Happened to me once. May not apply to yours thou. Any way, just another helpful tip for you.

Noel

Yep, had that happen to me a couple times. Took some head scratching to figure out what happened.

Fortunately, Noel, I noticed those two holes were threaded and could see the butterfly shaft in there. Then fortunately again, the air filter housing Kenny sent me is not drilled for screws right there! The choke shaft runs across about where the red line is. Straighter, of course---LOL!
DSCN3018_LI.jpg

DAC
 
Well, I ordered a tube. Pretty expensive 3.8" long chunk of rubber hose at a few cents under 20 bucks but I'd just as soon not have oil blowing out either. None of them gave exact measurements and if the serial number tag on this engine was legible, I may have been able to have a little more confidence it's the correct 20 dollar chunk of rubber! We'll see when it gets here!

DAC
Soon as I get to it, I'll mail you the fill tube for hydro. PM me your address.
 
Some of the best people in the world reside right here. Daniel thanks for helping out.
Isn't that the truth, Chris! Between GTT and now TF, the people on these sites are what really elevated my interest in GT's! It's almost been 10 years since I started hanging out on these pages. One of these days (after retirement!) I'll have more time for following the day to day stuff that gets posted!

Daniel is definitely one of them for sure!

Yes sir! Daniel is the man!

You made me a kind offer too which I may have to impose on you for too, Jason! It seems that the top link for the 3 point is an MF only length. Even if I built a longer "U" link to give enough clearance for a spherical bearing, the whole link itself will have to be fabricated. If I remember correctly the MF shortest top link length is 8". The shortest ones I have found are 11" and they are 5/8" holes rather than 1/2" holes like the MF. It may not be too difficult to fabricate a new setup but the reverse threads on one end of the tube could be an issue for me. There is an outside chance the engine may be ready to test-run in the next couple of weeks. I hate for you to go through the work to send it when this thing could still be parted out.

Once again, thanks everyone, for contributing to this adventure!

DAC
 
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Tonight I worked on it for less than an hour. Got the air temperature just fine out in the work bay, but everything I have to hang onto was still cold as ice! My hands got too cold pretty fast.

Had the choke cable soaking with penetrating spray and it is moving ok now although not mounted in the original location. That plastic dash is in too bad of condition to mount anything on that has any kind of force put to it.
DSCN3023.JPG

Started tinkering on building a choke rod but gave up to warm my fingers. Need to try another bend in the rod and put it in the other hole.
DSCN3020.JPG DSCN3021.JPG

Been noticing that the engine is marking it's territory. Will need to address that too!
DSCN3022.JPG

DAC
 
Isn't that the truth, Chris! Between GTT and now TF, the people on these sites are what really elevated my interest in GT's! It's almost been 10 years since I started hanging out on these pages. One of these days (after retirement!) I'll have more time for following the day to day stuff that gets posted!



Yes sir! Daniel is the man!

You made me a kind offer too which I may have to impose on you for too, Jason! It seems that the top link for the 3 point is an MF only length. Even if I built a longer "U" link to give enough clearance for a spherical bearing, the whole link itself will have to be fabricated. If I remember correctly the MF shortest top link length is 8". The shortest ones I have found are 11" and they are 5/8" holes rather than 1/2" holes like the MF. It may not be too difficult to fabricate a new setup but the reverse threads on one end of the tube could be an issue for me. There is an outside chance the engine may be ready to test-run in the next couple of weeks. I hate for you to go through the work to send it when this thing could still be parted out.

Once again, thanks everyone, for contributing to this adventure!

DAC
Maybe this will help:

The zinc plated are the longer ones! Not sure what the max length is on these.
 
Isn't that the truth, Chris! Between GTT and now TF, the people on these sites are what really elevated my interest in GT's! It's almost been 10 years since I started hanging out on these pages. One of these days (after retirement!) I'll have more time for following the day to day stuff that gets posted!



Yes sir! Daniel is the man!

You made me a kind offer too which I may have to impose on you for too, Jason! It seems that the top link for the 3 point is an MF only length. Even if I built a longer "U" link to give enough clearance for a spherical bearing, the whole link itself will have to be fabricated. If I remember correctly the MF shortest top link length is 8". The shortest ones I have found are 11" and they are 5/8" holes rather than 1/2" holes like the MF. It may not be too difficult to fabricate a new setup but the reverse threads on one end of the tube could be an issue for me. There is an outside chance the engine may be ready to test-run in the next couple of weeks. I hate for you to go through the work to send it when this thing could still be parted out.

Once again, thanks everyone, for contributing to this adventure!

DAC
No problem, let me know if you go to get rid of that rear PTO shaft as well. The pin hole for the Massey one is 5/8” but the mounting hole is 1/2”
 
Maybe this will help:

The zinc plated are the longer ones! Not sure what the max length is on these.
There is nothing that company doesn't have it seems, Kenny! Thanks for the link! We get a lot of stuff from them at work, and I should have been able to think of them!

No problem, let me know if you go to get rid of that rear PTO shaft as well. The pin hole for the Massey one is 5/8” but the mounting hole is 1/2”

I will probably build one with spherical, bearings, Jason. I'm not too keen on the 1/2" pin in a 5/8" hole. If this tractor gets to the point I can't afford to do any more repairs, like major hydro or transaxle problems, it will get parted out. You will be the first one in line for that pto shaft!

DAC
 
Worked on it a bit longer tonight after the day job. Got the choke rod bent where I think it will work. Pulled out the throttle cable and sprayed it with some Yield. Only took a few minutes and the wire pulled right out of the housing. Straightened the wire tapping on it with a hammer on the anvil. Housing wasn't kinked anywhere. Cleaned the wire with a scotchbrite and it slides nicely now. Put that back on the tractor and hooked them both up. Both cables and the new choke link seem to be moving fine. Still have to bend a "Z" in the bottom of the choke link but I will do that when the carb comes back off for the vent tube and cover gasket installation. Also have to read up on adjusting that governor. That spring seems so stout it's hard to imagine the governor will pull the carb to idle. Don't want that thing to rev so tight the first time it fires that it dumps it's guts!

DAC

DSCN3024.JPG DSCN3030.JPG
 
Doug, that spring is not original, the original Kohler spring is smaller in diameter and has a smaller spring section. It has a long straight section to limit interference with the fuel lines. Also, the small screw under the throttle cable is used to limit your throttle "throw", so you can adjust it to prevent over revving. Do you have a Kohler manual? If not, I would download one. With all the Kohlers I have I actually downloaded and printed a copy off.
 
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Doug, that spring is not original, the original Kohler spring is smaller in diameter and has a smaller spring section. It has a long straight section to limit interference with the fuel lines. Also, the small screw under the throttle cable is use to limit your throttle "throw", so you can adjust it to prevent over revving. Do you have a Kohler manual? If not, I would download one. With all the Kohlers I have I actually downloaded and printed a copy off.
Sounds like another Kohler specific part I need to find then, Jake! Thanks for the info! No don't have a Kohler manual yet. There may be one over at GTT. Don't think I saw one here. Have to check again.

Don't happen to have one of those springs, do you, Jake?

DAC
 
I'll have to check at my uncles this weekend Doug, I might have a couple stashed away. A kohler manual is indispensable, it gives you everything you need to know about your motor, from setting the points, to the governor and spring settings on your throttle linkage. It's the K series bible.
 
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Some thing doesn’t look right there Doug. I think all my Kohlers have a short spring. Maybe different model than mine. I’ll take a look today and get some pictures if I see some thing.

Noel
 
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