Pot pizza for mothers day. Novel idea.
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What are you currently working on??
- Thread starter backwoods
- Start date
fixed that fat fingered snafu.....(in the original post, can't fix it here within someone else's quote of my original post)
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Rust hole above gas filler door. Welded patch in.
Noel
Noel
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Saturday I had to replace a broken door handle on my Toyota truck, had a spare door. After replacing door handle I fitted one of the Toyota arm rests in my '41 IHC,,,looks fine, sits right so installed the pair. Armrests been on my bucket list for years.
As well found my OLight big help working inside door panel of Toyota. Light has both a belt/hat clip and powerful magnet.
As well found my OLight big help working inside door panel of Toyota. Light has both a belt/hat clip and powerful magnet.
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All I got done tractor-wise this weekend is to order another set of bearings to rebuild one more MF610 mower deck spindle so I have one ready in case of a failure. I was darn lucky that I had one ready when a bearing failed last year. I had gotten one done preparing for the deck rebuild in the coming winter/spring but couldn't do any more as the deck was still cutting grass!
DAC
DAC
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I like that armrest idea! I never put any in my '55. It is still all stock armstrong steering but they would still get used occasionally! What year Toyota?
DAC
Got an 04 Tacoma with a loose outside driver door handle. Just about doesn't work. Been putting it off cause I hate working on auto doors. Especially since they started putting all the electrical in them. So how bad are the Toyota doors?
Don
Easy. I checked YouTube as to how to remove inside door handle. The rest was quite simple. My truck is all manual, not a wire in my door
This is what causes looseness. See the white plastic. That is the break
Looks like that box is shaping up Noel! You'll get a bunch of years out of that truck yet!
My plans for after work got put off for a while. I went in to talk to my wife for awhile, and about the time she wanted to watch news I started for the door and rain started pretty hard! Got to the shop anyway and went on the 'net for a while. Finally about 6 the rain quit so I got the overhead door open and checked the timing and idle speeds on the '55 GMC. I had the carb off of it last weekend and have been wanting to tune it in a bit. Weather never cooperated enough the have the door open until after this rain.
Got it idling well and timed. I'll hit the pavement and gravel again with it in the morning. Tomorrow, I'm only working until noon. Took the afternoon off to try and get the mowing done.
DAC
My plans for after work got put off for a while. I went in to talk to my wife for awhile, and about the time she wanted to watch news I started for the door and rain started pretty hard! Got to the shop anyway and went on the 'net for a while. Finally about 6 the rain quit so I got the overhead door open and checked the timing and idle speeds on the '55 GMC. I had the carb off of it last weekend and have been wanting to tune it in a bit. Weather never cooperated enough the have the door open until after this rain.
Got it idling well and timed. I'll hit the pavement and gravel again with it in the morning. Tomorrow, I'm only working until noon. Took the afternoon off to try and get the mowing done.
DAC
My thumb is on the piece that broke away from the rest which is the white piece..
So yesterday on my way home my right rear brake shoes locked up. Not sure whats happened but I read its likely a faulty wheel cylinder. Never experienced this. Brake smoking when i got home so I'll be dealing with this today.
well... last day of this week off due to COVID (I always have weekends off anyway, since I took this job/ so I'm not counting tomorrow and Sunday as "days off") as of now I work next M-F, and have the next week off again (COVID related, company mandate) but I haven't been counting on that next week off, til Friday at 3:30 comes, and I haven't heard different by then. the kid (my "only") came by with their Trailblazer, wanted me to check it out for a bad wheel bearing, a couple days ago... Oh yeah/ driver front is beyond shot… noisey by 20 MPH, can feel the gas pedal vibrating/buzzing because of it, jacked it up and the wheel had ~3/4" of wobble/slop.
It was quiet as can be, Sunday, when we made that Menards run in it, for the plumbing work we had to do at his house... IDK what happened to it, between Sunday and Tuesday?
Once I got into it I discovered both ball joints on that side had play, what I had to pull off for that bearing, was about halfway to getting the spindle off for the ball joints.... so they got changed too.... I did the other side, back when the daughter in law 1st bought this thing almost 100K miles ago (bought with 150K, now at 250K) the pass side ones were shot then, and I suggested doing all 4 then, she said "her Dad says only change the ones that show 'bad' at this time, dont do the others".... I'm surprised it went this long between the pass side being worn out and the driver's side showing bad...
I put outer tie rod ends on this thing last summer, they had it aligned/ ball joints seemed fine then. I need to check the ones on the other side... just because it's been 100K since I changed them/ but now that last month, she started a new job 2 counties away, and over an hour travel time each way, "on a good day"/ whether she likes it or not, when it comes here for service, she'll have to put up with my "executive decisions" being I'd be the one playing "Roadside Rescue".... which I DON'T want, to have to do. I avoid going into Chicago, like the plague. so I DON'T want her breaking down there.
The past couple days, I have been hard at it, finishing my underhood rewire on my newest to me truck, my 85 D-150. I went to a yard and got the best harness they had on a yard truck at the time, I went thru and fixed all the bad spots (cracked insulation, much less previous owner interference on the junkyard harness than my original, plus it was already set up for plain old electronic ignition, rather than the "computer ignition" that mine originally had.... which was getting ripped out and tossed in the trash, no matter what. even if it hadnt come to me with hacked wiring.
Yesterday I finished modifying the mount bracket for my junkyard sourced underhood fuse box, so it would fit my truck, involved welding, bending 3/4" flat stock in the vise, adding a few Nutserts, back n forth between the truck and the vise several times.... and re did my drawing of said fuse box since my original went MIA, so I could know which wires coming from beneath the fuse box went to which fuse slot with it mounted and the bottom cover in place.... so I could tell which circuit from my truck, was being put to which fuse slot within the fuse box....
One thing I have always hated about Dodge products, was their wiring protection setup... fusible links. To pop in a new fuse, is so much easier... and whether I rebuilt the old hacked harness, or the junkyard harness, each had at least 1 blown fusible link to be tended to, (original harnbess had 2) so the truck could run without jumpered out wiring, (which I did just so I could hear the engine run, to make sure it was in serviceable shape...) though it's nearly impossible to kill a Slant 6..... though older Fords had a similar system with multiple fusible links back then, too.....
so today, I laid out the new harness and hooked up what I could, mounted the fuse box, and trimmed/crimped/soldered/ applied heat shrink as needed, 1 circuit at a time, while I went back to that drawing and charted what circuit I put to which fuse.... I split things up and put a couple more things thru the fuse box than was originally fused, with those PITA links.
how they worked was, they put a short length of wire 4 gauge sizes smaller than parent circuit (12 ga circuit got a length of 16 ga fusible link) with different (lower melting temp) wire, and different insulation that was supposed to "contain" the heat when a link blew, to keep from having a "wire fire"..... but they'd blow at the worst times, and I never had fusible link wire of 4 different gauge sizes, dykes, crimpers with me when I had issue with them, I've only had a couple blow over the years and fortunately in the driveway or close to home..... a few extra fuses of the different style from original, in the glove box, is an easier alternative. I used the huge "MAXI" fuses..... larger version of the bladed plastic fuses we have gotten used to.
now to hook up carb linkage, make my new fuel line from filter to carb (old one leaked at carb fitting), fire it up and dial in timing and carb adjustments, it should be ready to go down the road. I have 3 people wanting me to do "car-work" side jobs/ and the original muffler on my daily driver 96 Dakota is screaming at me// so while I wasn't initially in a hurry to get this truck done, and I'm still not, at least when I get that carb hooked up and plop the battery in, I can move it in n out under its own power, so I can free up my hoist. I ain't doing front-to-back brake lines on a Chevy truck, or shocks/struts on both a Clown Vic and some kind of (ugh) Toyota on my back, no more..... especially when I have my own 2 post lift.
I plan on getting/doing the needed body work and fresh paint, down the road (wife don't know that yet)
GT/small engine wise, I finally got me a good commercial duty push mower, a Ransomes Bobcat the other day.... been looking for a while. PO didn't want to spend the crazy money for new wheels, they thought "the only" solution was OEM replacements, I had some here (brand new!) that work fine, same diameter and width, just slightly different in hub width. I bought them for something else a while ago and *brain fart* they wouldn't work for the original intent, so they have been sitting here.... got them "on a deal" at a surplus store I stopped at while passing thru 2 states away... thought they'd work on another machine, I have but they're 10" and I needed 8s for that one.... but they fit this one! Steel hubs, and ball bearings too, just like the originals from this machine.
I initially put them on this mower, spaced out with a stack of 4 washers each, and I discovered that what is basically a square nut that fits in indentions in the deck, depending on cut height you want, was cracked in half....
the next morning after I got it, I went to mow my yard and "discovered" the cracked square nut. so I tacked it together, put it back on and did about 4 swipes, now it cracked in "quarters," instead of just in 1/2. good thing I have a few more push mowers in the garage, huh?
so I asked the kid if the machinist at work could do me a "gov't job".. the original nuts were ~7/16" thick, and threaded 1/2" coarse within, I had 2 each made, that were 3/4" thick and 1" thick, to try. The 1" thick ones fit perfect, no extra washers needed, to prevent rubbing. It's back together, I mowed Wednesday, we had 5-3/4" of rain yesterday (and expecting more Sunday) my yard already looks like it needs cut again... I guess the Turf Builder did its job... If I don't cut it again tomorrow, I'll have to call a combine and a baler after this next batch of rain.....
next job small engine wise, when I get a chance, I want to swap on that "new" K301 that I got from the boneyard onto my Cub 129, and see what it'll do....... see if (and how well, at that point), it runs or not. just because. Its original one runs, has plenty of power/ but smokes noticeably out the breather under heavy load. the "new" engine has been short blocked, is stickered as such, and is that "universal Kohler gray" but who knows how recently...... you guys know how that goes......... I want to check it out and see.
It was quiet as can be, Sunday, when we made that Menards run in it, for the plumbing work we had to do at his house... IDK what happened to it, between Sunday and Tuesday?
Once I got into it I discovered both ball joints on that side had play, what I had to pull off for that bearing, was about halfway to getting the spindle off for the ball joints.... so they got changed too.... I did the other side, back when the daughter in law 1st bought this thing almost 100K miles ago (bought with 150K, now at 250K) the pass side ones were shot then, and I suggested doing all 4 then, she said "her Dad says only change the ones that show 'bad' at this time, dont do the others".... I'm surprised it went this long between the pass side being worn out and the driver's side showing bad...
I put outer tie rod ends on this thing last summer, they had it aligned/ ball joints seemed fine then. I need to check the ones on the other side... just because it's been 100K since I changed them/ but now that last month, she started a new job 2 counties away, and over an hour travel time each way, "on a good day"/ whether she likes it or not, when it comes here for service, she'll have to put up with my "executive decisions" being I'd be the one playing "Roadside Rescue".... which I DON'T want, to have to do. I avoid going into Chicago, like the plague. so I DON'T want her breaking down there.
The past couple days, I have been hard at it, finishing my underhood rewire on my newest to me truck, my 85 D-150. I went to a yard and got the best harness they had on a yard truck at the time, I went thru and fixed all the bad spots (cracked insulation, much less previous owner interference on the junkyard harness than my original, plus it was already set up for plain old electronic ignition, rather than the "computer ignition" that mine originally had.... which was getting ripped out and tossed in the trash, no matter what. even if it hadnt come to me with hacked wiring.
Yesterday I finished modifying the mount bracket for my junkyard sourced underhood fuse box, so it would fit my truck, involved welding, bending 3/4" flat stock in the vise, adding a few Nutserts, back n forth between the truck and the vise several times.... and re did my drawing of said fuse box since my original went MIA, so I could know which wires coming from beneath the fuse box went to which fuse slot with it mounted and the bottom cover in place.... so I could tell which circuit from my truck, was being put to which fuse slot within the fuse box....
One thing I have always hated about Dodge products, was their wiring protection setup... fusible links. To pop in a new fuse, is so much easier... and whether I rebuilt the old hacked harness, or the junkyard harness, each had at least 1 blown fusible link to be tended to, (original harnbess had 2) so the truck could run without jumpered out wiring, (which I did just so I could hear the engine run, to make sure it was in serviceable shape...) though it's nearly impossible to kill a Slant 6..... though older Fords had a similar system with multiple fusible links back then, too.....
so today, I laid out the new harness and hooked up what I could, mounted the fuse box, and trimmed/crimped/soldered/ applied heat shrink as needed, 1 circuit at a time, while I went back to that drawing and charted what circuit I put to which fuse.... I split things up and put a couple more things thru the fuse box than was originally fused, with those PITA links.
how they worked was, they put a short length of wire 4 gauge sizes smaller than parent circuit (12 ga circuit got a length of 16 ga fusible link) with different (lower melting temp) wire, and different insulation that was supposed to "contain" the heat when a link blew, to keep from having a "wire fire"..... but they'd blow at the worst times, and I never had fusible link wire of 4 different gauge sizes, dykes, crimpers with me when I had issue with them, I've only had a couple blow over the years and fortunately in the driveway or close to home..... a few extra fuses of the different style from original, in the glove box, is an easier alternative. I used the huge "MAXI" fuses..... larger version of the bladed plastic fuses we have gotten used to.
now to hook up carb linkage, make my new fuel line from filter to carb (old one leaked at carb fitting), fire it up and dial in timing and carb adjustments, it should be ready to go down the road. I have 3 people wanting me to do "car-work" side jobs/ and the original muffler on my daily driver 96 Dakota is screaming at me// so while I wasn't initially in a hurry to get this truck done, and I'm still not, at least when I get that carb hooked up and plop the battery in, I can move it in n out under its own power, so I can free up my hoist. I ain't doing front-to-back brake lines on a Chevy truck, or shocks/struts on both a Clown Vic and some kind of (ugh) Toyota on my back, no more..... especially when I have my own 2 post lift.
I plan on getting/doing the needed body work and fresh paint, down the road (wife don't know that yet)
GT/small engine wise, I finally got me a good commercial duty push mower, a Ransomes Bobcat the other day.... been looking for a while. PO didn't want to spend the crazy money for new wheels, they thought "the only" solution was OEM replacements, I had some here (brand new!) that work fine, same diameter and width, just slightly different in hub width. I bought them for something else a while ago and *brain fart* they wouldn't work for the original intent, so they have been sitting here.... got them "on a deal" at a surplus store I stopped at while passing thru 2 states away... thought they'd work on another machine, I have but they're 10" and I needed 8s for that one.... but they fit this one! Steel hubs, and ball bearings too, just like the originals from this machine.
I initially put them on this mower, spaced out with a stack of 4 washers each, and I discovered that what is basically a square nut that fits in indentions in the deck, depending on cut height you want, was cracked in half....
the next morning after I got it, I went to mow my yard and "discovered" the cracked square nut. so I tacked it together, put it back on and did about 4 swipes, now it cracked in "quarters," instead of just in 1/2. good thing I have a few more push mowers in the garage, huh?
so I asked the kid if the machinist at work could do me a "gov't job".. the original nuts were ~7/16" thick, and threaded 1/2" coarse within, I had 2 each made, that were 3/4" thick and 1" thick, to try. The 1" thick ones fit perfect, no extra washers needed, to prevent rubbing. It's back together, I mowed Wednesday, we had 5-3/4" of rain yesterday (and expecting more Sunday) my yard already looks like it needs cut again... I guess the Turf Builder did its job... If I don't cut it again tomorrow, I'll have to call a combine and a baler after this next batch of rain.....
next job small engine wise, when I get a chance, I want to swap on that "new" K301 that I got from the boneyard onto my Cub 129, and see what it'll do....... see if (and how well, at that point), it runs or not. just because. Its original one runs, has plenty of power/ but smokes noticeably out the breather under heavy load. the "new" engine has been short blocked, is stickered as such, and is that "universal Kohler gray" but who knows how recently...... you guys know how that goes......... I want to check it out and see.
You have been super busy Trucker! It has to take quite a bit of time to remove a donor harness from a vehicle doesn't it? Sounds like a cost effective way to get the stuff you need though.
I did some "environmentally correct" disposal of some fluids today. I have a lot of floor dry on hand so I emptied my old solvent tank that I really don't use any more since the pump quit. The solvent looked pretty good yet not mixed so I saved 5 gallons straining it through paint filters. I'll just pour out a bit here and there for washing parts. Will scrap the rest. Then I figured since I was on that roll I would also dispose of a couple gallons of old anti freeze that I had in a "redneck mouse trap". there were 7 or 8 dead mice in the bottom of the bucket. If I would have been better at maintaining it there would have been a lot more. It was out in one of my sheds and got tired of having it in the way.
The dump and garbage collectors will take that kind of stuff long as it isn't runny liquid, hence mixing it with floor dry.
DAC
I did some "environmentally correct" disposal of some fluids today. I have a lot of floor dry on hand so I emptied my old solvent tank that I really don't use any more since the pump quit. The solvent looked pretty good yet not mixed so I saved 5 gallons straining it through paint filters. I'll just pour out a bit here and there for washing parts. Will scrap the rest. Then I figured since I was on that roll I would also dispose of a couple gallons of old anti freeze that I had in a "redneck mouse trap". there were 7 or 8 dead mice in the bottom of the bucket. If I would have been better at maintaining it there would have been a lot more. It was out in one of my sheds and got tired of having it in the way.
The dump and garbage collectors will take that kind of stuff long as it isn't runny liquid, hence mixing it with floor dry.
DAC
There, all undercoated.
Noel
Noel
Attachments
Right rear wheel locked up Tuesday morning on pickup. Seems glue let go on pad and it jammed in drum. When they quit riveting pads to brake shoes.
Also installing new exhaust this week and replacing a crossmember that supports fuel tank...centre of support rotted at bottom...of course everything all good and solid,,,I just created a bunch of work for myself, but its been on my "to do" list for a few years.
Also installing new exhaust this week and replacing a crossmember that supports fuel tank...centre of support rotted at bottom...of course everything all good and solid,,,I just created a bunch of work for myself, but its been on my "to do" list for a few years.
