I can see that. My stove will start sucking a good draft with the heat generated by the greasy paper towel and that is why it works for me.Stove and fireplace are two completely different cats. I use newspaper balls and kerosene on small kindling but need some 2" diameter split stuff to get thing going before the bigger stuff goes on. Amount of wind is a big difference too.
It doesn't seem to be, Noel. When the engine is off, it reads 12.7-12.9 after it sits awhile. Reads about 13 right after I shut it off.Is the battery low Doug? Maybe that why the reading is up a bit on the test gauge.
Noel
We have load testers at work so sometime next week I will give that a shot, Roger.Bad cell in the battery? I would load test the battery and see how that checks out..
Shouldn't engine running battery voltage be nearly the same as the dash gauge, Dodge? I might have an old voltmeter laying around here, but a multimeter should work too, maybe?The newer gms are computer controlled, and in my experience at any given time the charge voltage can vary widely. I've usually seen this via my scanner, I wonder if you could temporarily hook up a secondary volt meter, possibly wire one to a cigarette lighter plug and pop it in, and compare to the dash gauge reading. A cheap autometer or sunpro style one would work great for this
Check the pic above, Aaron, it's definitely a gauge. This gauge has never varied around much at all until the other day. Sometimes around 13, and sometimes around 14.5. It has never maxed out at 19 before!Is the GM gauge an actual gauge? I think it was my 2004 ram gauge that if it was in normal range it would show right in the middle. If it was exceeding it would peg or if it was charging under it would show zero. It was an idiot light shaped like a gauge basically.
Applying that theory I thought alternators charged a max of 14.7. If you are over that it would peg the gauge.
I don’t know. It’s hard to say how these newer vehicles act. You can apply old school logic but throwing in the computer systems changes all logic.
I’ve changed out 3 alternators and 3 starters on my ranger in the 12 years I’ve owned it. Last set I put on were NOS I bought at the ford dealer, not reman. They have lasted twice as long and knock on wood still going strong
Yes that is true, Dodge. Could be checking it while driving that way. I will load test the battery this week, and it may come to setting up a temporary gauge as you suggest.I have had vehicles where the factory gauges just didn't read right. Or plain "don't work".
At work we have a ton of 08-14 impalas. Normally the heat gauge is in the middle of the range. I've seen them come in overheating, smoking, gurgling, puking and the gauge is still right down the middle. So they really don't tell me much. I just suggested the temporary aux gauge to check against the original, and unlike a multi meter you can use/check conditions other than just parked with the hood up.... Because system voltage will vary with operating conditions
I do the greasy towel thing too. Carol just gave me a big bag full the other day to take to the shop. I stuff toilet paper tubes with drier lint works good too.Rarely split any thing small any more. Whenever I fry something I wipe the pan out with a paper towel before washing it. Those paper towels are the best fire starters I have ever used. Put two chunks of wood in the stove with a greasy paper towel between them and light the towel. It has never failed me so far.
Don
I’m having the same problem on my Sears SS15. The amp gauge on the tractor is showing about 3 amps more than my meter is showing. It’s really aggravating driving it looking at that gauge.Guess I will change the subject for a post. I took that alternator off the '06 Denali and headed into town in the '55. I had them test it first. They ran a test several times and concluded nothing is wrong with it. Brought it back home and put it back on. I think it may be charging a 1/2 volt too much, but the voltmeter hooked to the battery posts doesn't agree with the gauge. 3-4 volts difference.
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The dash gauge was reading higher than that yesterday though. Think I will keep checking it with a voltmeter for awhile to decide if I want to spend 225 bucks on a rebuilt one!
DAC
Bought two for $15, and with the parts I have on-hand, I now have two good working starters. The first one didn't need any work.How many are you thinking you will salvage from that stash? Are you trying to cherry pick the best parts just to get 1 good unit?
Just after parts in the bin that work.Looks to me like three different mounts type on the bin. What's the chance of having the right one if/when it is needed?
I’m assuming this was meant for me. It shouldn’t take much of a gear head to figure out I meant amps instead of volts. I hope it didn’t boggle your head much. I made the correction.And gauge showing volts ?? That's a new one.