What are you currently working on??
- Thread starter backwoods
- Start date
Got home from work, my new valves and breather were in the mailbox when I got home for my troy built.
So tonight after work I put them in, I used a electric drill powered valve seat grinder for the first time ever on it, had to hand file and grind a bunch off the new exhaust valve stem (NOS Tecumseh In a box that screamed early 70s by the logo on the box... ) I don't have a valve grinder anymore, so I had to freehand the stem on my bench grinder then finished it with a hand file. I lapped them in, contact area on exhaust valve came in lower on valve face than I was thinking it would. Before I did anything else I dropped the new valves in and with the intake valve wide open and a flashlight in the exhaust port I still saw daylight around the valve before I did the seats and before I started shortening the stem.
I never touched the new intake valve's stem and still ended up a little bit over on valve clearance.
I ended up a bit tight on exhaust valve clearance. They do "average out" exactly to spec between them... Haha
I've used a valve grinder many times over the years, finally got one and the armature was shot on the valve spinning motor so I ended up scrapping it. . I got the seat stones, pilots, and driver motor with that valve grinder, but first time I have ever used one of those. Just "touched" the seats in the block. The exhaust lapped great, the intake acted like no contact while lapping, even though I verified clearance between stem and lifter.... I tested them with brake clean around the valve heads before I put the head in and no leakage into the ports.... Should outlast the rest of the engine.
I also pulled the flywheel and replaced the burnt points with a set of old NOS Tecumseh ones Ive had around forever. They've been replaced some time before as well as having an aftermarket coil mounted. It's been a long while since I "timed" a Tecumseh magneto... Years ago I got the official Tecumseh dial indicator that screws in the spark plug hole just for that job.,.. definitely easier with the continuity light I used to have vs having to hold 2 leads of a fluke meter in place while moving the magneto to where specs said that they wanted timing for that engine to be at ..
So tonight after work I put them in, I used a electric drill powered valve seat grinder for the first time ever on it, had to hand file and grind a bunch off the new exhaust valve stem (NOS Tecumseh In a box that screamed early 70s by the logo on the box... ) I don't have a valve grinder anymore, so I had to freehand the stem on my bench grinder then finished it with a hand file. I lapped them in, contact area on exhaust valve came in lower on valve face than I was thinking it would. Before I did anything else I dropped the new valves in and with the intake valve wide open and a flashlight in the exhaust port I still saw daylight around the valve before I did the seats and before I started shortening the stem.
I never touched the new intake valve's stem and still ended up a little bit over on valve clearance.
I ended up a bit tight on exhaust valve clearance. They do "average out" exactly to spec between them... Haha
I've used a valve grinder many times over the years, finally got one and the armature was shot on the valve spinning motor so I ended up scrapping it. . I got the seat stones, pilots, and driver motor with that valve grinder, but first time I have ever used one of those. Just "touched" the seats in the block. The exhaust lapped great, the intake acted like no contact while lapping, even though I verified clearance between stem and lifter.... I tested them with brake clean around the valve heads before I put the head in and no leakage into the ports.... Should outlast the rest of the engine.
I also pulled the flywheel and replaced the burnt points with a set of old NOS Tecumseh ones Ive had around forever. They've been replaced some time before as well as having an aftermarket coil mounted. It's been a long while since I "timed" a Tecumseh magneto... Years ago I got the official Tecumseh dial indicator that screws in the spark plug hole just for that job.,.. definitely easier with the continuity light I used to have vs having to hold 2 leads of a fluke meter in place while moving the magneto to where specs said that they wanted timing for that engine to be at ..
I did that on cub cadet. BE sure and check to make sure the spindle is contacting the axle f;at/ The ones on the cub were just contacting the outside edge. Had them milled down to fit flush and to make room for the thrust washers and the bearings. Yes it made a big difference. I slid a piece of biocycle innertube over the azle with a clamp to help kep dirt and dust out of the bearing. They are in a vaulnerable place for mower debree.
Effort is reduced for sure. Might be more noticeable on a lighter tractor.
I have to keep reminding myself that I put those bearings on. .
Honestly never seen much of a difference. But many guys have. Thankfully they're not expensive or hard to install.
Put a new shaft in the 54GT deck for the Cub 1862. Second pump of the gun and the drive in zerk can out with the gun tip. Now to drill, then tap it for a threaded zerk. Tried to get the old spindle zerk out and no luck at all. $75 for a new one and it falls out. 
Sort of like a CVT boot. neat.
That does not sound like fun. I have an old Bolen's frame with a furnace fan on it. Tried moving it a while back and the rear wheels drug, as in would not turn. Not sure if I will take the wheels off and scrap the rest or try to get things turning again. Don't really need another project right now.
Cleaned up a bunch of the old guttering in the drive. Cut out the damaged pieces, cut a couple 4' sections for the boy and a couple 3 ft. for the down spout at the drive. Pieces wet to the scrap pile and one good 25' section is laying along the side of the drive. When I put the steel roof on the deck I put a 4X6 20' on top of the 4X4 post and fastened it. The one end started bowing dow after about 3 months. I have cut several slots up from the bottom and drove Oak wedges in to try and straighten it. Still bowed down about 2" in 5 feet. Can't get guttering in the right place to catch the water in that area without it being way to low at the other end. Not sure what I will no there yet but the old gutrtering needs replaced.
Sounds like around here. Went to use my tractor mount tiller, it broke. I don't use it very often, probably helped with the reason it broke the way it did.
Bought another tiller just to finish the job and found out as soon as I put it in the dirt that it needs attention as well .
Not sure whether to fix the tractor one or bail..... To fix it right I might as well strip it and paint it while it's apart, the might as wells will kill me... I want to just throw it back together with needed parts just to finish the job and worry about fixing it "right" later... A "later" that might not come.
Wow.
I forgot what it's like to run a walk behind tiller and have it hit something underground that you can't see... I swapped engines on my TB with another unknown quality, used cast iron HH60 just to get this job done... Even though it occasionally puffs a bit when the governor kicks in, it's still a pretty strong motor .. I have this 11hp here as a plan B if I can find an air filter housing for it ( former snowblower engine, never had an air filter from new) but jeez it "jumps" bad enough, with another tired 6 hp .... I don't think the 11hp would mysteriously chew up those roots that are buried.at least this tired 6hp doesn't instantly die as soon as the times hit grass ( as in before I lower the tines enough to even touch dirt like the original engine was doing......
I forgot what it's like to run a walk behind tiller and have it hit something underground that you can't see... I swapped engines on my TB with another unknown quality, used cast iron HH60 just to get this job done... Even though it occasionally puffs a bit when the governor kicks in, it's still a pretty strong motor .. I have this 11hp here as a plan B if I can find an air filter housing for it ( former snowblower engine, never had an air filter from new) but jeez it "jumps" bad enough, with another tired 6 hp .... I don't think the 11hp would mysteriously chew up those roots that are buried.at least this tired 6hp doesn't instantly die as soon as the times hit grass ( as in before I lower the tines enough to even touch dirt like the original engine was doing......
Most of those walk behind tiller don't turn fast enough to chew into the ground. They want to crawl over it all the time. If you can fins an older BCS 2 wheel tractor with the tiller attachment it will do the job on sod or other firm ground. Hard roots or rocks will make them all jump.
Wow Jazz that’s a mess hope it cleans up good. That’s a nice looking wood stove you got in the back
Good looking garden Marty I didn’t know you were involved in gardening. I really believe if you sit on a bucket watching beans long enough you could see them grow. I haven’t posted ours yet will be doing that soon. We had a big bean problem I hit the pole beans mixed up with the bush beans