Are you adding grease zirks, Noel and Bill?
DAC
SAE VS Metric maybe, Noel?I will try too Doug. Gotta find bearings. Odd size. Always to way with me, when I try to find parts.
Noel
SAE VS Metric maybe, Noel?
DAC
PI will try too Doug. Gotta find bearings. Odd size. Always to way with me, when I try to find parts.
Noel
Should be some numbers on them Noel. May have to scratch around a bit. Usually on the the rubber or steel outer surface.Ya. Could be Doug. But its a 1975 deck made in Wisconsin , US. I think. You would think they would be SAE. Diameter is
1 25/32” bore is 3/4” width is almost 5/8”.
I’ll keep looking.
Noel
P
Should be some numbers on them Noel. May have to scratch around a bit. Usually on the the rubber or steel outer surface.
Funny you should say that. A lot opinions on whether they do anything on sealed bearings. My Woods zero turn came with sealed bearings and zerks from the factory. Not knowing they used sealed. They said grease every 10-12 hours. In 26 years and over 1200 hours I only replaced bearings in one spindle and only because it was a little louder than the others. So apparently grease does find a way to get in the bearings. And that being said I wasn’t really planning on adding any to the Craftsman decks cause I kinda think they’re going to out live me. Freaking hell how I think as I get older.Are you adding grease zirks, Noel and Bill?
DAC
Yea forgot about shipping to your area. Usually a relatively common number so hopefully you can get some locally.Good morning Bill. Ya there are numbers but can’t make out all of them. And was had to find any thing the same. One Amazon site found it. But would not ship to Canada. I rather find something local. So if there’s a problem with fit I can take it back. I did get information, from a fella who uses these tractor sites, so I’ll go NAPA today and see if they have them.
Noel
Wow that does sound like it needs to be redesigned for user friendly. I guess the main thing is it’s helping you.Only run it when I need it and the strength I need. Lowest setting starts at the lower back. As strength is increased the "sensation" gets stronger and works further down the legs. It seems to have an automatic feature also. I can have it on mild setting and sit down in a firm chair and shortly it will increase down to or past the knees a for a bit and gradually return to where it was set. The incision area where they did the actual implant is really sensitive yet. After a 2+ hour charging session it really starts to get my attention when something is moved against it. Personally, they have a couple design changes they need to make. First they need about a 16 or 18" material piece added to the bag the charging pad is in so it will come part way around the side of the body. Takes two hand, and really need a second person to get it positioned right before the sleatic belt si stretched to thold things in place. Second, the charging pad is VERY sensitive to exact position in order to get the proper rate of charge. Almost impossible unless it is taped in place. Third, The cord between the recharging batter pack and the pad is to short at about 16". Needs to be at least 2 feet so it can be laid donw whiel the pad is positioned. The way it is set up now, due to limited shoulder movement to my back I cannot recharge the unit myself. Cannot get the pad close enough to the right precise place before it turn off. Will run about 5 days on a charge. Went that long the last time and took way too long to recharge the unit again so will do a recharge about every 3 days.
I had a tens unit a few years ago. Only wanted it used when limited activity. What is limited activity on an acreage in the summer with a garden? As a result, it was not compatible with my activity.
I’ve got a 2005 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 with a blown head gasket. I’m debating whether to do it myself or not. The last engine I was into was a 1988. There’s a well known mechanic not far from me I'm thinking about letting him do it. They say he does really good work and is reasonable. Mine starts good then runs rough for about a minute then gets better, after about 20 minutes it starts puffing white smoke. No water in the oil. I’m just not as confident in myself as I use to be with the older engines.Pulled the plugs from the Liberty, no obvious signs of wetness or burning white. Scan says cylinder 1 misfire, but not sure which one it is. Going to see if my coworker has a compression tester or a coolant system pressure tester and go from there.
It was definitely burning white, missing badly, and coolant tank is bone dry.
You tube videos are showing 2 to 3 day job so with my luck, at least a couple weeks for me
Napa is usually pretty good at finding a replacement if you show them your old one. One time I went there and I had the Timken number but he insisted on me telling him what it came off of. I assured him it doesn’t matter just match the number or cross reference it. He asked again so I told him a 1976 MTD 990 with a 16 horse engine and a hydro tranny with no air. He looked at me like I was a lunatic. He then done a cross reference and found the bearing. LolGood morning Bill. Ya there are numbers but can’t make out all of them. And was had to find any thing the same. One Amazon site found it. But would not ship to Canada. I rather find something local. So if there’s a problem with fit I can take it back. I did get information, from a fella who uses these tractor sites, so I’ll go NAPA today and see if they have them.
Noel
Napa is usually pretty good at finding a replacement if you show them your old one. One time I went there and I had the Timken number but he insisted on me telling him what it came off of. I assured him it doesn’t matter just match the number or cross reference it. He asked again so I told him a 1976 MTD 990 with a 16 horse engine and a hydro tranny with no air. He looked at me like I was a lunatic. He then done a cross reference and found the bearing. Lol
The 3.7 and 4.7's basically have 3 timing chains, 2 to the overhead cams, one from crank to a center pulley. You have to pull the whole front of motor to get to timing chains.....it's gonna take me a while.I’ve got a 2005 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 with a blown head gasket. I’m debating whether to do it myself or not. The last engine I was into was a 1988. There’s a well known mechanic not far from me I'm thinking about letting him do it. They say he does really good work and is reasonable. Mine starts good then runs rough for about a minute then gets better, after about 20 minutes it starts puffing white smoke. No water in the oil. I’m just not as confident in myself as I use to be with the older engines.
So. Rethinking about putting grease nipples in. I suppose it would depend on the bearing whether the bearing is sealed or not.
Noel
I pulled the inner seal out of the sealed bearings on the MF610 mower deck spindles when I rebuilt them all a few years ago, and added a zirk to pump grease into, then another one opposite with the ball driven out for a vent. The sealed bearing is the top. On the bottom is a needle bearing with a lip seal. It is always that needle bearing that gives out so I wanted to be able to grease it. I got all these ideas on GTT from a guy that went by Fyrfyter if I remember correctly. My main deal is parts aren't available besides the bearings so I need to preserve the shaft and blades.Funny you should say that. A lot opinions on whether they do anything on sealed bearings. My Woods zero turn came with sealed bearings and zerks from the factory. Not knowing they used sealed. They said grease every 10-12 hours. In 26 years and over 1200 hours I only replaced bearings in one spindle and only because it was a little louder than the others. So apparently grease does find a way to get in the bearings. And that being said I wasn’t really planning on adding any to the Craftsman decks cause I kinda think they’re going to out live me. Freaking hell how I think as I get older.
I spray with Rust Chek annually but found a spot i had been missing,,,i will have to do better. Been spraying underside, inside frame rails and inside cab panels since i got it. I also wash out the boxed frame prior to spraying product inside..Your box is in very good condition.
Around here with the road salt, most boxes are really just shells with the inside floor holding things together.
Most are totally crusty rusty fragments.
Yeah I seen the three chains and more than likely one should probably replace them. I have stood in front of it several times trying to talk myself into it. A few guys on here suggested trying a couple of stop leak kits that might work if the leak isn’t bad.The 3.7 and 4.7's basically have 3 timing chains, 2 to the overhead cams, one from crank to a center pulley. You have to pull the whole front of motor to get to timing chains.....it's gonna take me a while.