What are you currently working on??

We had out largest scrap dealer in the area move to Mo. Scrappers had most everything cleaned up in this part of the state. Small local guy is still going but yeard is cleaned up good. I have a load to go one of these days, later this fall though. Take what I get just to get it out of here. We have the 5 cent deposit on all our cans and most drink bottles, not the light flimsy water bottle though.
 
Puylled the PTO clutch off the 11HP Briggs and put it on the Vanguard. All adjusted and ready to go. Will get the drive shaft coupler tomorrow. Miss communication on the first one. Made a larger drawing and more measurements for this one. Get it put in, clamp the engine down and fire it up - after I jack the rear end off the ground. Rolled the doner tractor out the door and around the corner, jumped on and down the hill to the pallet building we went, Just about made it all the way.
 
Closest I have ever came to a blow out. Trailer developed a light vibration at 30 mph a couple weeks ago. I inspected tires but never saw this. Well last night it got pretty bad and tire was in the right spot. Didn't have many miles left if any.
Loosened lugs then back the other tire up on a ramp, had it changed in 5 mins.

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I pulled the fenders, front and rear tires, plow, seat, and a few other things off the SS12 today. All tires were original, the fronts are junk, but I may be able to save the rears. Got a second coat of paint on the wheel weights, hood, grill, and some engine tin. Started wire wheeling the fenders, and doing some metal work on the toolbox. Been pretty busy.
 
Found the front axle on my Bolens 750 was wobbly. Being a tube frame I presumed the tubes squashed some, but appear to be OK. Nevertheless, I fabricated some tube supports, removed the front axle, slipped the supports in and reassembled it all. Fixed well enough now I can tighten it down without worry of crushing the tubes.
 
TAHOE said:
Closest I have ever came to a blow out. Trailer developed a light vibration at 30 mph a couple weeks ago. I inspected tires but never saw this. Well last night it got pretty bad and tire was in the right spot. Didn't have many miles left if any.
Loosened lugs then back the other tire up on a ramp, had it changed in 5 mins.

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You have a few more turns left in that one. Longest split I have seen in a tire without blowing. Good thing it is a tandem axle.
 
A little upgrade to the Rancher 2, the 1st photo is of the weights on the toolbar 38 LBs center IMG_20181012_095023.jpg which made it harder to lift the 3 point with the manual lift , then decided to use the bell bar weights of the MTD rider mower as i had pre drilled those weights IMG_20190821_212318.jpg i used threaded booker rod through the rims with nuts both sides to lock the rods in place then slid the weights on and secured them with nylex nuts , now each wheel carries 44 LBs in each wheel now and better traction to boot
88 LBs in total IMG_20190822_090203.jpg made the lift gear way easier to use .

Shane
 
Got the Briggs Vanguard set in the 1650 this afternoon. Gov was hung up and would only run wide open. Got that straightened out. Need to lift the front of the engine just a bit to line it up with the drive shaft better. Now to get the mounts welded in place. Then check the hydro out and make sure it is operating right. Already saw one welded up piece that will be replaced.
 
Back working on the Cub 1650 again. Drive shaft adapter from the motor to the shaft.

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Got the motor set in and the front mounts welded in place.

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Lifted it up to get under to weld the back motor mounts in place. Can get at the back bolts and nuts from top and bottom. Front bolts are welded to the cross mount but can get at the nuts on top. One is a bit tricky due to the starter kind of in the way.

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Now to figure out why there is no reverse. I think things are way out of adjustment as it hits neutral before the control lever get to that position. If I can't get this one working I have another rear end I can put in this tractor but would rather not do that. Anyone have any suggestions on thewse Sundstrand set ups?
 
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chieffan said:
Back working on the Cub 1650 again. Drive shaft adapter from the motor to the shaft.

View attachment 17014 View attachment 17015


Got the motor set in and the front mounts welded in place.

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Lifted it up to get under to weld the back motor mounts in place. Can get at the back bolts and nuts from top and bottom. Front bolts are welded to the cross mount but can get at the nuts on top. One is a bit tricky due to the starter kind of in the way.

View attachment 17016

Now to figure out why there is no reverse. I think things are way out of adjustment as it hits neutral before the control lever get to that position. If I can't get this one working I have another rear end I can put in this tractor but would rather not do that. Anyone have any suggestions on thewse Sundstrand set ups?
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engine refits are always fun lol
 
chieffan said:
Can be real challenging along with the fun. But the satisfaction after it is done and running is the best part.
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My problem is i don't know much about your types of machinery especially Garden Tractors so that makes it hard to give productive input on some of the threads .
so for some i just read and try to understand and learn and appreciate what y'all post up , but practical mechanics i can is mostly common sense though
 
I have been working on the MF12H that has been disassembled in my garage for 3 months. I have almost all off the parts that are MF flint grey painted. IMG_20190901_182921879.jpgThe running boards and dash tower are in the garage. Today i was able to get the frame pulled out and wash up. I ended up painting it with rust proof paint, similar to KBS. IMG_20190901_183019381_HDR.jpg The frame wont fit in the cabinet to blast and prime and I have good luck with putting on KBS and then paint in the past. All the other parts were sandblasted, primed and painted.
 

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Help from forum members was very important to my re-power on the MF12G back on GTT before this forum came about several years ago. Ebay and Harbor Freight were helpers parts wise!

Since we got back late last night from being in the Denver area for 8 days, it's still been post-trip unloading and catching up on some chores that got behind. Will mow tomorrow. Had a check engine light come on with my wife's '06 GMC on Thursday in Denver. Stopped at Harbor Freight down there and bought a code reader since I've never had one (my trucks are way before that stuff!) then when I had a chance to use it the light had gone out again. Didn't worry about it at the time, than while driving home a "Tighten gas cap" warning appeared then the light came back on. I put the meter on it this morning and cleared the code. If it comes back again, hopefully it's just in need of a gas cap.

DAC
 
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MFDAC said:
Help from forum members was very important to my re-power on the MF12G back on GTT before this forum came about several years ago. Ebay and Harbor Freight were helpers parts wise!

Since we got back late last night from being in the Denver area for 8 days, it's still been post-trip unloading and catching up on some chores that got behind. Will mow tomorrow. Had a check engine light come on with my wife's '06 GMC on Thursday in Denver. Stopped at Harbor Freight down there and bought a code reader since I've never had one (my trucks are way before that stuff!) then when I had a chance to use it the light had gone out again. Didn't worry about it at the time, than while driving home a "Tighten gas cap" warning appeared then the light came back on. I put the meter on it this morning and cleared the code. If it comes back again, hopefully it's just in need of a gas cap.

DAC
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I have an 04 Avalanche, which is probably real close to the same set up as your GMC. I had that same "Tighten Gas Cap" message a few times. Put on a new gas cap and still got the message. The it quit. Then once in a while the check engine would come on. Had a GM mechanic friend that has a big code reader check it once. Some where (they put them various places) is a filter for fresh air intake to part of the emission system. This filter starts to get full of road dust, etc. and causes the code. He did a quick look but did not see it. I kept clearing it and haven't see it now for some time. I did have to put a new fuel pump in about a month ago as the metal fitting out the top of the plastic pump had rusted through & was leaking gas. Mechanic said that could have been causing the "check engine" light to come on. Hopefully that is not your situation as that was not a cheap repair.
 
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