New project
- Thread starter jdcrawler
- Start date
The frame for the backrest is painted.
This is set into the pocket in the padding.
I cut out a wider piece of 1/2 inch plywood that covers the bottom area of the padding except for a 1 inch wide strip along the front edge.
This piece of plywood is screwed to the wood strip on the metal backrest frame.
The 1 inch wide strip in front of the piece of plywood is filled with padding and the masking tape is holding it in place.
I cut out a piece of aluminum that is the same size and shape of the wider piece of plywood.
The upholstery is slid over the padding and fastened to the piece of plywood with staples.
The piece of aluminum is then fastened to the underside of the padding to hide the staples.
The backrest is mounted back onto the cart.
This is set into the pocket in the padding.
I cut out a wider piece of 1/2 inch plywood that covers the bottom area of the padding except for a 1 inch wide strip along the front edge.
This piece of plywood is screwed to the wood strip on the metal backrest frame.
The 1 inch wide strip in front of the piece of plywood is filled with padding and the masking tape is holding it in place.
I cut out a piece of aluminum that is the same size and shape of the wider piece of plywood.
The upholstery is slid over the padding and fastened to the piece of plywood with staples.
The piece of aluminum is then fastened to the underside of the padding to hide the staples.
The backrest is mounted back onto the cart.
This cart will have lever steering like a Zero Turn mower. The only difference being that this cart has the caster wheels in the back instead of the front.
Making the steering control levers wouldn't be any problem at all but I wanted something that had the look of a factory made item so I went searching on the internet.
When I saw these levers on ebay, I knew they were just what I was looking for.
They are hydraulic control levers off and old Farmall tractor.
I have cleaned them up and drilled and tapped holes in the transmission covers so this can be mounted on top of them.
They are mounted so there is just enough clearance between them and the shift lever when it is in the forward position.
This shows the location of the levers in relation to the driver.
From these levers, I need to have control rods going forward to a jack shaft that will then have control rods going down towards the brakes.
The control levers operate with a rotating rod with the left lever attached to it that is mounted inside a rotating tube with the right lever attached to it.
For the jack shaft, I need to make a rotating shaft that is inside a rotating tube just like the levers.
I'll start by making the mounting housing that will hold the rotating tube.
This will be made out of a solid piece of 1-7/8 inch steel rod that will have a clearance hole drilled thru it for a 1 inch diameter tube.
I drill this clearance hole out to 1-1/8 inch drill size.
As you can see, using this large of a drill is more then my lathe was designed for and I have to use a vice-grip to keep the drill chuck from rotating in the tail housing on the lathe.
Once the clearance hole is drilled all the way thru, I then use a boring bar to machine a 1-5/16 inch diameter counter bore in each end for small roller bearings.
A small hole is drilled and tapped into the side of the housing for a grease fitting.
Then a roller bearing is pressed into each end.
The rotating tube will be made out of a piece of 1 inch diameter stainless rod.
This will have a smooth, rust resistant surface for the roller bearings to ride on.
This piece of stainless needs to have a clearance hole drilled thru it for a 5/8 inch diameter rod.
The stainless piece is over 7 inches long so I have to get out some of my special long drills to drill the hole all the way thru it.
Making the steering control levers wouldn't be any problem at all but I wanted something that had the look of a factory made item so I went searching on the internet.
When I saw these levers on ebay, I knew they were just what I was looking for.
They are hydraulic control levers off and old Farmall tractor.
I have cleaned them up and drilled and tapped holes in the transmission covers so this can be mounted on top of them.
They are mounted so there is just enough clearance between them and the shift lever when it is in the forward position.
This shows the location of the levers in relation to the driver.
From these levers, I need to have control rods going forward to a jack shaft that will then have control rods going down towards the brakes.
The control levers operate with a rotating rod with the left lever attached to it that is mounted inside a rotating tube with the right lever attached to it.
For the jack shaft, I need to make a rotating shaft that is inside a rotating tube just like the levers.
I'll start by making the mounting housing that will hold the rotating tube.
This will be made out of a solid piece of 1-7/8 inch steel rod that will have a clearance hole drilled thru it for a 1 inch diameter tube.
I drill this clearance hole out to 1-1/8 inch drill size.
As you can see, using this large of a drill is more then my lathe was designed for and I have to use a vice-grip to keep the drill chuck from rotating in the tail housing on the lathe.
Once the clearance hole is drilled all the way thru, I then use a boring bar to machine a 1-5/16 inch diameter counter bore in each end for small roller bearings.
A small hole is drilled and tapped into the side of the housing for a grease fitting.
Then a roller bearing is pressed into each end.
The rotating tube will be made out of a piece of 1 inch diameter stainless rod.
This will have a smooth, rust resistant surface for the roller bearings to ride on.
This piece of stainless needs to have a clearance hole drilled thru it for a 5/8 inch diameter rod.
The stainless piece is over 7 inches long so I have to get out some of my special long drills to drill the hole all the way thru it.
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The ends of the 1 inch diameter tube are bored out and 5/8 ID bronze bushings are pressed into each end.
Putting the bushings into the ends of long tubes is another thing that I use my lathe for.
I put the bushings and the tube on the 5/8 rod and grip the rod very lightly in the chuck jaws so the rod can easily still slide in as the bushings are pressed in place.
Then I use the screw on the tail tail stock to press the bushings in place.
This keeps everything in a straight line much easier then trying to stand the tube up straight on the regular press.
I can do this on the lathe because bushings are a very light press fit.
I figure out how far the tube will fit into the housing and then I drill a hole in the tube so the grease can get into the bushings.
I assemble the parts and figure out how long I want the 5/8 shaft to be.
With this assembled, you can see that when I put grease in the housing, it will grease the the roller bearings in that housing and go on into the tube to grease the bushings.
These are the levers and hubs that I machined that will fit onto the 1 inch tube.
The hubs are pressed into the levers.
Then they are brazed around the outside.
The brazing is smoothed down and the levers are mounted onto the 1 inch stainless tube at 90 degrees to each other.
I drilled and tapped a hole in each of the hubs for a set screw.
A corresponding hole is drilled 3/4th of the way into the wall of the stainless tube.
The set screws are tightened down into those holes to lock the levers onto the tube the same as if they were pinned together.
The one lever is pressed onto the end of the 5/8 shaft and welded in place.
The other lever has a hub pressed into it.
This shaft is slid into the stainless tube and the lever is fastened onto the other end of it at 90 degrees to the lever on the other end.
I have a small bolt and nut holding the lever in place for now but when everything is finished, there will be a split pin pressed thru the lever to lock it onto the shaft.
Putting the bushings into the ends of long tubes is another thing that I use my lathe for.
I put the bushings and the tube on the 5/8 rod and grip the rod very lightly in the chuck jaws so the rod can easily still slide in as the bushings are pressed in place.
Then I use the screw on the tail tail stock to press the bushings in place.
This keeps everything in a straight line much easier then trying to stand the tube up straight on the regular press.
I can do this on the lathe because bushings are a very light press fit.
I figure out how far the tube will fit into the housing and then I drill a hole in the tube so the grease can get into the bushings.
I assemble the parts and figure out how long I want the 5/8 shaft to be.
With this assembled, you can see that when I put grease in the housing, it will grease the the roller bearings in that housing and go on into the tube to grease the bushings.
These are the levers and hubs that I machined that will fit onto the 1 inch tube.
The hubs are pressed into the levers.
Then they are brazed around the outside.
The brazing is smoothed down and the levers are mounted onto the 1 inch stainless tube at 90 degrees to each other.
I drilled and tapped a hole in each of the hubs for a set screw.
A corresponding hole is drilled 3/4th of the way into the wall of the stainless tube.
The set screws are tightened down into those holes to lock the levers onto the tube the same as if they were pinned together.
The one lever is pressed onto the end of the 5/8 shaft and welded in place.
The other lever has a hub pressed into it.
This shaft is slid into the stainless tube and the lever is fastened onto the other end of it at 90 degrees to the lever on the other end.
I have a small bolt and nut holding the lever in place for now but when everything is finished, there will be a split pin pressed thru the lever to lock it onto the shaft.
It's a nice warm night so I went back out to the garage after church this evening and did some more work.
There is a big tractor show on June 24-26 and my daughter is coming down to go to it with me and I sure would like to have this ready to use by that time.
The double 90 degree lever jack-shaft assembly is mounted in place. It is bolted to the steel frame that the rear shroud, the hood and sides panels attach too.
This is a welded square part of that frame and it is made out of 1 inch wide by 3/16 thick strap steel.
There is a square box like this on both sides of the transmission and they are strong enough that I hooked the chain to them to lift this tractor up and set it on the work table.
View from the drivers seat.
The two levers that are showing sticking out from the shroud are the levers that will have the control rods going down towards the brakes.
These two levers have 10-24 screws under them that each lever rest on. These are the stops that control the position of the aluminum control knobs and can be adjusted to keep the two knobs in line in their forward position.
Working on one of the control rods now. I'm cutting threads on one end and using my lathe to make sure that the thread die is started straight on the rod.
I make a couple of turns by using the tail stock to put pressure on thread die while I rotate the lathe chuck by hand.
Once I have a couple of threads cut on the rod, I clamp the rod in a vice and do the rest of the threads by hand.
The end of the rod is turned down a little ways to the inside diameter of the die. This is so I can slide the thread die onto it to guarantee that the die is on center to the rod when it starts cutting the threads.
The two top control rods are made up and mounted in place. The springs on the levers are temporary to hold them in the forward position.
Once all the control rods are in place, these springs will be removed because the springs on the brake bands will keep everything pulled into the forward position.
There is a big tractor show on June 24-26 and my daughter is coming down to go to it with me and I sure would like to have this ready to use by that time.
The double 90 degree lever jack-shaft assembly is mounted in place. It is bolted to the steel frame that the rear shroud, the hood and sides panels attach too.
This is a welded square part of that frame and it is made out of 1 inch wide by 3/16 thick strap steel.
There is a square box like this on both sides of the transmission and they are strong enough that I hooked the chain to them to lift this tractor up and set it on the work table.
View from the drivers seat.
The two levers that are showing sticking out from the shroud are the levers that will have the control rods going down towards the brakes.
These two levers have 10-24 screws under them that each lever rest on. These are the stops that control the position of the aluminum control knobs and can be adjusted to keep the two knobs in line in their forward position.
Working on one of the control rods now. I'm cutting threads on one end and using my lathe to make sure that the thread die is started straight on the rod.
I make a couple of turns by using the tail stock to put pressure on thread die while I rotate the lathe chuck by hand.
Once I have a couple of threads cut on the rod, I clamp the rod in a vice and do the rest of the threads by hand.
The end of the rod is turned down a little ways to the inside diameter of the die. This is so I can slide the thread die onto it to guarantee that the die is on center to the rod when it starts cutting the threads.
The two top control rods are made up and mounted in place. The springs on the levers are temporary to hold them in the forward position.
Once all the control rods are in place, these springs will be removed because the springs on the brake bands will keep everything pulled into the forward position.
The outside mounts for the lover jack shaft will also be attached to the framework for the hood and side covers.
The bottom part of this framework isn't attached to anything so I need to correct that.
These are the brackets that I made up for doing that.
They bolt onto the axle housing on each side and the bottom part of the framework is welded to them.
Boring out a piece for one of the two bearing brackets for the lower jack shaft.
These have a bearing pressed into them and they are bolted to the framework on each side.
The 3/4 inch diameter jack shaft is supported by them on each side.
I made up a short sleeve with a bearing pressed into each side and this is slid onto the jack shaft.
The blue tape is to keep it in position.
Then I built this mounting bracket.
This bracket bolts to the crossbar and the down bar on the framework and holds the two bearings in place between the two outer bearings.
A lever is welded to one end of the jack shaft and slid into place.
There is a collar with a set screw that screws down into a hole in the shaft to keep the shaft from sliding out.
The other end of the jack shaft fits into one of the sleeve bearings.
The other lever is mounted on the shaft at 90 degrees to the lever on the outside of the shaft.
The bottom part of this framework isn't attached to anything so I need to correct that.
These are the brackets that I made up for doing that.
They bolt onto the axle housing on each side and the bottom part of the framework is welded to them.
Boring out a piece for one of the two bearing brackets for the lower jack shaft.
These have a bearing pressed into them and they are bolted to the framework on each side.
The 3/4 inch diameter jack shaft is supported by them on each side.
I made up a short sleeve with a bearing pressed into each side and this is slid onto the jack shaft.
The blue tape is to keep it in position.
Then I built this mounting bracket.
This bracket bolts to the crossbar and the down bar on the framework and holds the two bearings in place between the two outer bearings.
A lever is welded to one end of the jack shaft and slid into place.
There is a collar with a set screw that screws down into a hole in the shaft to keep the shaft from sliding out.
The other end of the jack shaft fits into one of the sleeve bearings.
The other lever is mounted on the shaft at 90 degrees to the lever on the outside of the shaft.
The levers for the lower jack shaft for the left side are made up and set into place.
The control linkage going back to the brake band is is made up and mounted on both sides.
Then I made up both of the control rods that connect the upper jack shaft to the lower jack shaft.
All the linkage for operating the brakes is now completed.
You can see that the temporary spring has been removed from the right control lever up on top of the transmission.
The spring is still on the left control lever because I haven't drilled the hole into the lower jack shaft for the set screw to fit into on the inside lever down there yet.
I will do that when I take this all apart to prime the parts.
Here is a closer view of the lower jack shaft and control rods.
The parts are all primed.
The control linkage going back to the brake band is is made up and mounted on both sides.
Then I made up both of the control rods that connect the upper jack shaft to the lower jack shaft.
All the linkage for operating the brakes is now completed.
You can see that the temporary spring has been removed from the right control lever up on top of the transmission.
The spring is still on the left control lever because I haven't drilled the hole into the lower jack shaft for the set screw to fit into on the inside lever down there yet.
I will do that when I take this all apart to prime the parts.
Here is a closer view of the lower jack shaft and control rods.
The parts are all primed.
This is the front of the air shroud that fits over the top of the engine.
As you can see, the mounting front flange only has one hole that is still usable.
So I need to make a new mounting flange.
I start by bending a strip of metal at 90 degrees. Then I use the shrinker to start to form it into the half round shape.
I keep working on that until it is formed to fit the shape of the flywheel cover.
Then I drill the four mounting holes into it.
The old flange is cut off the front of the air shroud and the new flange is pop riveted to it.
Then I sand blasted it and the flywheel cover and prime both of them before I mount them back onto the engine.
I also sand blasted and primed the front grill before I re-mounted it onto the front of the engine.
Putting the hood back on completes this part of the work.
As you can see, the mounting front flange only has one hole that is still usable.
So I need to make a new mounting flange.
I start by bending a strip of metal at 90 degrees. Then I use the shrinker to start to form it into the half round shape.
I keep working on that until it is formed to fit the shape of the flywheel cover.
Then I drill the four mounting holes into it.
The old flange is cut off the front of the air shroud and the new flange is pop riveted to it.
Then I sand blasted it and the flywheel cover and prime both of them before I mount them back onto the engine.
I also sand blasted and primed the front grill before I re-mounted it onto the front of the engine.
Putting the hood back on completes this part of the work.
Working on the rear side panel that fits onto the left side of the framework.
It has been sand blasted and a notch has been cut out of the edge where it will fit around the lower jack shaft bearing mount.
Both rear panels are finished and fastened in place.
You can see in this photo of this tractor when I got it, that the gas tank is mounted in-line with the tractor and the top center part of the rear panel is cut out for clearance around the tank.
The original gas tans was all rusted out on the bottom so I threw it away and I found this gas tank to replace it.
This is a tank that someone made and it is built out of 6 inch diameter pipe with plate steel welded onto the ends.
The tank is very heavy duty and it weighs 20 pounds. I won't have to worry about this one ever rusting out.
This has a flip up cap that will need some work.
They did a good job welding it up but there is a lot of welding spatter on the ends.
I sand blasted it and smoothed down of the welds on both ends.
Then I primed it.
This tank is a lot longer then the original gas tank.
If I mount it in line, like the original tank, then it will be real close to the gear shift knob and it will make it difficult to operate the gear shift.
So I have decided to mount the tank crosswise and this leaves a big gap in front of it in the top of the rear panel.
To fill that gap, I start by cutting out a strip of sheet metal and bending one edge over to form a slot.
Then I bend it in the center to form it to the shape of the top.
This top center panel is fastened in place with the slot slid over the back edge of the two side panels and two screws holding it at the front.
It has been sand blasted and a notch has been cut out of the edge where it will fit around the lower jack shaft bearing mount.
Both rear panels are finished and fastened in place.
You can see in this photo of this tractor when I got it, that the gas tank is mounted in-line with the tractor and the top center part of the rear panel is cut out for clearance around the tank.
The original gas tans was all rusted out on the bottom so I threw it away and I found this gas tank to replace it.
This is a tank that someone made and it is built out of 6 inch diameter pipe with plate steel welded onto the ends.
The tank is very heavy duty and it weighs 20 pounds. I won't have to worry about this one ever rusting out.
This has a flip up cap that will need some work.
They did a good job welding it up but there is a lot of welding spatter on the ends.
I sand blasted it and smoothed down of the welds on both ends.
Then I primed it.
This tank is a lot longer then the original gas tank.
If I mount it in line, like the original tank, then it will be real close to the gear shift knob and it will make it difficult to operate the gear shift.
So I have decided to mount the tank crosswise and this leaves a big gap in front of it in the top of the rear panel.
To fill that gap, I start by cutting out a strip of sheet metal and bending one edge over to form a slot.
Then I bend it in the center to form it to the shape of the top.
This top center panel is fastened in place with the slot slid over the back edge of the two side panels and two screws holding it at the front.
As you can see here, this gas tank is not only longer than the original tank, it is also bigger around than the original tank.
I'm holding the original gas tank mount up to it and you can see that the straps don't come anywhere near going all the way around the tank so they can bolt down to the mounting bracket.
I order to put this tank on the tractor before, I had to spread the mounting bracket out and use longer bolts to fasten the straps down around the tank.
Because of that, I have decided not to use this mounting bracket at all and I'm going to make my own mounting brackets that will be welded right to the gas tank.
Here I have laid out the pattern for the mounting brackets on a piece of 1/16 inch thick sheet metal.
I had already started cutting them out before I thought of taking a photo.
Both brackets are cut out and one of them is bent into shape.
A piece of angle iron is welded into them for more support at the bottom where they will be bolted down.
These brackets bolt onto the top of the transmission.
I know how thick the tank is now.
I want to put a 3/8 pipe thread hole in the other end of the tank and I can see that the wall thickness looks to be a least 3/16 inch.
The two mounting brackets are welded to the underside of the gas tank and it is mounted back onto the tractor.
The fuel line is hooked up going down to the carburetor with the fuel shutoff being easy to reach from the driver's seat.
This is why I wanted another threaded hole in the bottom of the tank, so I could put a sight gauge there for checking the fuel level.
I'm holding the original gas tank mount up to it and you can see that the straps don't come anywhere near going all the way around the tank so they can bolt down to the mounting bracket.
I order to put this tank on the tractor before, I had to spread the mounting bracket out and use longer bolts to fasten the straps down around the tank.
Because of that, I have decided not to use this mounting bracket at all and I'm going to make my own mounting brackets that will be welded right to the gas tank.
Here I have laid out the pattern for the mounting brackets on a piece of 1/16 inch thick sheet metal.
I had already started cutting them out before I thought of taking a photo.
Both brackets are cut out and one of them is bent into shape.
A piece of angle iron is welded into them for more support at the bottom where they will be bolted down.
These brackets bolt onto the top of the transmission.
I know how thick the tank is now.
I want to put a 3/8 pipe thread hole in the other end of the tank and I can see that the wall thickness looks to be a least 3/16 inch.
The two mounting brackets are welded to the underside of the gas tank and it is mounted back onto the tractor.
The fuel line is hooked up going down to the carburetor with the fuel shutoff being easy to reach from the driver's seat.
This is why I wanted another threaded hole in the bottom of the tank, so I could put a sight gauge there for checking the fuel level.
Originally, this just had a short piece of pipe clamped onto the front of the exhaust manifold and extending out the hole in the grille without any muffler.
If this was going to still be a tractor, I would put an elbow on the end of the exhaust manifold and put a muffler sticking up thru the hood.
For a cart though, I would rather not have the exhaust sticking up out of the hood and would like to have it routed down and under to come out the back.
However, with the starter/generator being mounted on the left side, there isn't a lot of room to run the exhaust right down from the manifold.
I found this exhaust pipe and it is just what I need to route the exhaust to the other side of the engine.
With this, I can run the exhaust up and over the top of the engine and down the other side.
The intake and exhaust manifolds are both held in place by four 1/4 inch diameter studs.
The first three nuts were a little stiff coming off the studs but they all did come off alright.
The top nut on the back cylinder was turning good when it all of a sudden just popped loose.
Drilling out a broken stud and trying to get all of the stud threads out of the hole without damaging any of the threads in the hole itself is always a challenge.
However, I just happen to have some of these slick 1/4 inch diameter studs with 5/16 inch threads on one end ... and they are even the right length.
So I just drill the old stud out ( threads and all ) with a 1/4 inch diameter drill ( actually .257 diameter drill ) and then tap the hole for 5/16-18 threads.
With the new stud installed, the clamping disc fits just like it should.
I ran a tap thru all of the nuts to clean up the threads.
Then I used this little tool that I had made up a long time ago to run a thread die down all of the studs to clean the threads up on them.
This is a steel tube with an old socket welded on one end so I can use a ratchet and the other end holds a thread die.
If this was going to still be a tractor, I would put an elbow on the end of the exhaust manifold and put a muffler sticking up thru the hood.
For a cart though, I would rather not have the exhaust sticking up out of the hood and would like to have it routed down and under to come out the back.
However, with the starter/generator being mounted on the left side, there isn't a lot of room to run the exhaust right down from the manifold.
I found this exhaust pipe and it is just what I need to route the exhaust to the other side of the engine.
With this, I can run the exhaust up and over the top of the engine and down the other side.
The intake and exhaust manifolds are both held in place by four 1/4 inch diameter studs.
The first three nuts were a little stiff coming off the studs but they all did come off alright.
The top nut on the back cylinder was turning good when it all of a sudden just popped loose.
Drilling out a broken stud and trying to get all of the stud threads out of the hole without damaging any of the threads in the hole itself is always a challenge.
However, I just happen to have some of these slick 1/4 inch diameter studs with 5/16 inch threads on one end ... and they are even the right length.
So I just drill the old stud out ( threads and all ) with a 1/4 inch diameter drill ( actually .257 diameter drill ) and then tap the hole for 5/16-18 threads.
With the new stud installed, the clamping disc fits just like it should.
I ran a tap thru all of the nuts to clean up the threads.
Then I used this little tool that I had made up a long time ago to run a thread die down all of the studs to clean the threads up on them.
This is a steel tube with an old socket welded on one end so I can use a ratchet and the other end holds a thread die.
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The stub end is cut off the front of the exhaust manifold and I'm threading the inside with a 3/4 pipe thread so I can screw a 3/4 pipe elbow into it.
After trial fitting the manifold, I decided that I needed to move the pipe elbow back farther away from the front grille.
I cut the larger diameter end off the manifold and also off one end of the pipe elbow.
I screwed the pipe elbow onto the end of the manifold with a short piece of threaded pipe inside them.
Then I brazed them together and smoothed the joint down to where it will look like all one piece once it is painted.
The mounting flange for the exhaust pipe is cut out and the center hole is tapped for 3/4 pipe thread.
A short piece of pipe is screwed into it as tight as I could get it with a pipe wrench.
Then I cut the extra pipe off the front and smoothed it down so the exhaust pipe can be bolted to it with a gasket between them.
The exhaust and intake manifolds are both sand blasted and painted with heat proof header paint.
I mounted them back onto the engine and the mounting flange for the exhaust pipe is screwed into the end of the pipe elbow.
The exhaust pipe is bolted to it.
Here's how it clears the grille and hood.
That hole in the grille where the exhaust use to come out is plugged with a metal cap that is used to cap off extra holes in electrical boxes.
After trial fitting the manifold, I decided that I needed to move the pipe elbow back farther away from the front grille.
I cut the larger diameter end off the manifold and also off one end of the pipe elbow.
I screwed the pipe elbow onto the end of the manifold with a short piece of threaded pipe inside them.
Then I brazed them together and smoothed the joint down to where it will look like all one piece once it is painted.
The mounting flange for the exhaust pipe is cut out and the center hole is tapped for 3/4 pipe thread.
A short piece of pipe is screwed into it as tight as I could get it with a pipe wrench.
Then I cut the extra pipe off the front and smoothed it down so the exhaust pipe can be bolted to it with a gasket between them.
The exhaust and intake manifolds are both sand blasted and painted with heat proof header paint.
I mounted them back onto the engine and the mounting flange for the exhaust pipe is screwed into the end of the pipe elbow.
The exhaust pipe is bolted to it.
Here's how it clears the grille and hood.
That hole in the grille where the exhaust use to come out is plugged with a metal cap that is used to cap off extra holes in electrical boxes.
I recognize that sight glass. I used to clean and replace 25 to 30 of them each week at my job as a ( Lubrication Engineer ) Oiler in the factory I worked in.
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I don't think so.
There is at least 1-1/2 inch clearance all around and I would imagine the sheet metal will get hotter from sitting out in the sun all day then from the heat that this little 5 HP engine will put out.
I have some pieces of steel tubing that is just a little larger diameter then the exhaust pipe that is already on the engine and I'm going to use them to make up the exhaust.
Some of them have mandrel bends in them and some are straight.
I have the first piece brazed onto the exhaust pipe and pointing down and back.
There is a hanger strap fastened to the engine to support the lower end of this pipe.
I have two other pieces put together on the bench. All of the brazed joints have a sleeve inside the pipes that are joined together.
The smaller piece has a thicker sleeve on the right end that will fit up inside the the end of the pipe that is pointing down alongside the engine.
These two pieces will be held together by a clamp.
These two pieces are assembled under the cart and they are tack brazed together.
The two pipes are then removed and the joint is finished brazed.
Then I put them back in place under the cart and the clamp is snugged up to keep the pipe in place.
The tailpipe comes out in the back in the center of the frame.
From here, a muffler will be attached that will go up with the angle of the rear frame in that area.
Here are the pipes from the side with the clamp holding them together.
Some of them have mandrel bends in them and some are straight.
I have the first piece brazed onto the exhaust pipe and pointing down and back.
There is a hanger strap fastened to the engine to support the lower end of this pipe.
I have two other pieces put together on the bench. All of the brazed joints have a sleeve inside the pipes that are joined together.
The smaller piece has a thicker sleeve on the right end that will fit up inside the the end of the pipe that is pointing down alongside the engine.
These two pieces will be held together by a clamp.
These two pieces are assembled under the cart and they are tack brazed together.
The two pipes are then removed and the joint is finished brazed.
Then I put them back in place under the cart and the clamp is snugged up to keep the pipe in place.
The tailpipe comes out in the back in the center of the frame.
From here, a muffler will be attached that will go up with the angle of the rear frame in that area.
Here are the pipes from the side with the clamp holding them together.
