What are you currently working on??

I know a few guys that are big ranger fans. Maintained what seemed like a fleet of them for a neighbor, the last couple of them the core support rotted out of them, rest of the truck was still good shape.
My cousin has a 99 and a 2000, the 2000 is a "trailhead" version, a 2wd with 4wd suspension. The front end of the bed is beyond shot, last I seen it I had to go rescue him on his way home from work because he blew the radiator, I see his core support is also beyond shot, had to rig something together to get the new radiator to hold in place so he could get home, knowing him it's still that way.
 
This is where they rust out at Aaron. This is not my box, it’s a box for sale in Nova Scotia.

Noel.
 

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Mines a 2005 ranger Aaron and the box is gone bad. And I would say that every box on a ranger in eastern Canada is the same. I’ve been looking for a good box and none in this area. A few business in eastern Canada go to Texas and buy rust free boxes and resell them here. I’m not sure what I’m gunna do with mine. My box dropped last year and I did a temporary fix.

Noel

My neighbor just picked up a 2003 ranger base 2x4 like mine. Bed sides are gone. Cab corners and rockers. 4 years newer and 3/4 the miles. What paint is left is better than mine. My clear coat burned off and the base coat is so thin you can just about see through it!

Moment is solid all around except the cross braces which have some rust on them.
 
My neighbor just picked up a 2003 ranger base 2x4 like mine. Bed sides are gone. Cab corners and rockers. 4 years newer and 3/4 the miles. What paint is left is better than mine. My clear coat burned off and the base coat is so thin you can just about see through it!

Moment is solid all around except the cross braces which have some rust on them.
Just call that faded paint "patina" Aaron! That will add to the value!

No tractor work today, dang it! Oil change warning came on on my wife's '06 Denali couple days ago and she told me about that and a "noise" it's making. Kind of a rubbing that comes and goes with rotation. Slower than wheel rotation though. Put it up on stands, changed oil checked lube in all gearboxes, examined cv joint axles, pried them around checking for anything loose, rotated tires and checked all brakes and wheel bearings for wear and wobbles. Still makes the sound and drives straight and smooth. I'll check and see if a friend I have that's got a mechanic shop may be able to ride in it with me and make a judgement. Couldn't utube my way out of this one---LOL!

DAC
 
Went to bring the dogs in the house this morning, no where to be found. Wife found our male out front as she was leaving, female showed up in back porch. Found a tree in the ditch line had fell on fence so that's been my morning. Had to put a bunch of frost kinks in to tighten fence up, gotten a little loose for being 30 yrs old and had numerous trees fall on it.

Looking downhill, can't tell how steep it is from pic, I slid pretty much slide down the hill..
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All cleaned up for now. I need to get in ditch and replace some post clean up a lot of debris, but it's just more of a settling drain ditch or low spot water goes nowhere and rarely ponds up.

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The boy decided to split some wood he cut up in the back field ditch, it is affecting his shooting range L along with the big sycamore in background we have to cut. Not sure my 20" Stihl would get through it.

Kind of wished he would have left me some long trunk pieces from this stuff he cut, I think it's box elder, beautiful red steaks inside. Too late now though....always sitting on the job LOL

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Left front wheel bearing. It sure wasn't the same as the right front was last October. RF set off a ABS code, made no noise. When jacked up it would obviously wiggle. Couldn't tell LF was loose until I took the caliper off. Should have changed them both at once. My friend drove it about half a block and said that's what it was! These newer trucks can confuse the heck out of me sometimes.

DAC
 
yup. common with wheel bearing, sounds much like you're going over a "rumble strip" like when coming up to a "STOP" sign, or when on the interstate and coming up to a toll booth, often can make the noise come and go with slight wavering in your lane... or a sweeping curve one way vs steering the opposite way. this can be used to try and tell which side may be bad/ usually I find the noise is worse when swerving "into" bad side, and is less potent when swerving "away from" bad side.
 
Jumpins. I hate flat tires. Have tubes for both. Get to it today or tomorrow. One is off the MF 7 and one off MF 14.
Should take them to a tire shop, but I know I can do it myself.

Noel
 

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This wheel bearing kind of had the rumble strip sound like you said, Trucker. It was not "rough" sounding though. Hard to describe. Got the old one off last night, and installed a new one when I got home from work this afternoon. Sounded good again in a test drive. Wife will be happy to get her truck back.

DAC
 
on most hub bearings I see, the ABS sensor screws to it..... and are encased in plastic..... but they often seize so tight within the hub bearing that they cant be removed without drilling, etc...… which puts the shavings into the bearing which isn't real good for them.... meaning you gotta wind up replacing the hub assy to replace an ABS sensor...… they need to bring back Timken style tapered roller bearings, outer races, and a cheap seal.... that can actually be repacked..... not my favorite job for sure..... but if/when a bearing went bad on those, the repair (which is every bit as effective and safe) is MUCH cheaper than having to buy a hub assembly...… UNLESS you never have the bearings repacked (need to be done AT LEAST every time front pads are changed) and the inner race seizes to the spindle..... I replace LOTS of hub assy's at work, and often I have to take the whole knuckle off and figure a way to put them in a press to get them apart..... especially a cast bearing housing into an alum. knuckle.... usually have to torch the wheel hub "itself" out of the inner bearing race ( the part that the CV shaft extends thru) without touching the outer bearing race/housing so that I can get a good way to support the knuckle so I can press the bearing "pillow block" out of the knuckle.... I ALWAYYS take a flapper wheel in a drill or die grinder and clean the inner diameter of the knuckle and lob on plenty of anti seize to that surface before I put the new bearing on.....

in the earlier 2000s GM trucks were notorious for "false ABS activation" where the ABS would kick in below 10MPH just before you got to a final "stop" coming up to a light..... I replaced lots of hub assy's for that problem..... lately the 2014 Caprice cop cars (they redesigned them from earlier models) have been coming in left and right for new front hub assy's as the back of teh knuckle is sealed, (rear wh. drive car here) and they love to rust up in tehre, the rust floats around and acts like sandpaper on the sensor and on the tone ring that is on the back of the hub assy, and drives the ABS system nuts...… the sensor comes in from the side of the steering knuckle, behind the hub assy.....
 
in the earlier 2000s GM trucks were notorious for "false ABS activation" where the ABS would kick in below 10MPH just before you got to a final "stop" coming up to a light..... I replaced lots of hub assy's for that problem..... lately the 2014 Caprice cop cars (they redesigned them from earlier models) have been coming in left and right for new front hub assy's as the back of teh knuckle is sealed, (rear wh. drive car here) and they love to rust up in tehre, the rust floats around and acts like sandpaper on the sensor and on the tone ring that is on the back of the hub assy, and drives the ABS system nuts...… the sensor comes in from the side of the steering knuckle, behind the hub assy.....

My 99 Tahoe did that, the sensor ring and sensor had rust on them, thing would start that pulsating at low speed braking....I just pulled ABS fuse :D
 
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