What are you currently working on??

[chieffan]

I think I stumbled on the problem. There was 2 different models of clutches. The difference is parts are not interchangeable though they look the same. There is 0.100' difference in the length of the large part of the bushing. One is 0.795 and the other is 0.785. Overall length is the same. Will dign into this later this morning. Also need to figure out what part is supposed to do the moving in these things.

 

[KennyP]

Yeah, I found that info also and posted in your other thread.

 

[chieffan]

Thanks Kenny. Appreciate the help.

 

[chieffan]

Found another issue that may have caused some problem. The piece that fits down over the coil was not going all the way down. Build up of crud, dirt, oil. etc. Got everything cleaned up good and fitting pieces together. Had to use the shorter of the two bushings as the flex disc was way above the mating disc and would really bend things to get it down to the .010 tolerance. Didn't measure it yet but looks close to about .015. Should have the oil seal about Friday and will put things back together again and see what happens.

 

[chieffan]

Got the grill and mesh metal around the head lights from a parts nose piece to replace the damaged one that came with the tractor. Cleaned the side panels and hood up this morning and shot some rattle can red paint on them. Hanging in the garage drying now. Drained the oil, will put fresh in this afternoon. Plan to remove the fender pan and get it ready for paint later. Mainly waiting for the oil seal to put the front all back together.

 

[SimplyRad]

We were sitting around last night and the house felt like it dropped and few minutes it did it again. Went down in the crawl space and it looks like the jacks rusted and let the house fall a little bit so today I am going to Lowes to get 3 new jacks. It looks like there may have been 6" of water down there some time but right now it is so dry there are cracks in the floor.

 

[MH81]

I spent two hours on a 10 minute project
I tried to change the drive belt in my father-in-law's Cub cadet riding mower. Someone put the electric PTO on with 10000 foot pounds of torque or red loctite.
I ended up having to take off the belt guards and bending the ones that were molded into the frame, all because I could not get the stupid electric clutch off

Job completed, and it is now moving better and is mowing again.

Here it is, looking innocent.

 

[chieffan]

We have an 1810 that Carolyn uses. and very similar to yours. I put a drive belt on it a couple times and never did remove the clutch. Both belt guards are bolted to the frame on this one which would make it a lot easier.

 

[CRF6179]

I've been wanting to create a dedicated plowing tractor. I have been making a list of what I want to use and have been collecting parts.
One thing I've wanted was a pair of 12"x3" wheels from a cub/cub lo-boy tractor. I came across a pair of wheels that are 12"x4" with a 4x4 bolt pattern. I have hubs from a go-kart that are 4x4 but are used on a 3/4" axle, and I didn't want to alter them. I will be using a cub cadet front axle with 1" spindles. I have a few pairs of Cub Cadet front rims and decided to sacrifice two of them for this project. I needed the centers of those hubs with a 4x4" bolt pattern with studs. I found a hole saw the correct size and removed the centers from the wheels. I also had a large thick washer that just fit over the centers. Now all I needed was to drill and mount the washers and determine where to position them on the centers.

 

[CRF6179]

After laying out the 4x4" pattern on the washers I used the mill to bore the holes. Then I installed the studs and verified they fit the rim before welding the studs to the washer. Once that was done I determined the position of the washer to the centers and welded that.
They were then then put on the axle.
I may end up putting these on my Speedex so I am still looking for The Cub wheels.

 

[chieffan]

My Avatar shows my plowing tractor. Bolens 1250, ag rears filled with RV Antifreeze, 50# of weight on the nose to help steering a bit.

 

[chieffan]

Got the 782 dusty this morning. Put the 50" deck under it, but found that when the clutch is engaged it kills power to the engine. Bad clutch switch so put a separate switch on for now. Hole was already there so no big deal. Engine would puff out a bit of smoke once in a while. Have MMO in the gas so should quit that after it has run a few hours. Deck lift is not the best so will swap that out with a good one I have. Tractor turns shorter to the left than the right but think that is normal but not sure. $20 seat cover don't fit to bad. Would fit better if the back was 2" higher.

 

[Propane1]

How was the cut. ?


Noel

 

[dodge trucker]

yup, that is common that many GTs turn shorter one way, than the other... common on any that use teh Ross steering column....and it is intentional
It turns sharper to the side that allows clippings to blow out into previously mowed yard. and not as sharp towards the way you turn that makes the clippings blow in (meaning you have to continually remow the clippings) My Ariens and Cubs are all that way. but being the 1st lap or 2 has to face the other way, so the chute isnt into a tree line or fence, it sometimes makes it a pain..... and being taht when say, going around a tree, your chute is away from the tree it makes for a tighter turn radius when going around something like that...... make sense?
I think it was even listed as such in one of my CC manuals I have around here somewhere.

 

[chieffan]

This one seems to be more pronounced than by CC 1512. I think it turns shorter to the left than the 1512 does too. You just mow accordingly. Left it clear up to take the op off and level the weeds that are growing. In the shaded taller grass it cut good, but needs the high lift blades. The ones on this deck were the stock flat ones. All in all it runs good, about the same as my 1512, except the diesel don't change speed in heavier cutting like the Kohler does. Took a several years to get a Red CC but finally got one. This one and my 1512 will probably be the last two to go.

 

[Propane1]

So not a tractor, but workin on our 2013 ford escape. Both lower ball joints replace. Parts store wanted $200 plus per side. Had to buy whole control arm with ball joint installed. Son found ball joints on line some where. Both joints cost less than the one with control arm. Have to drill out the three rivets and get joint out. New ball joint kit came with all hardware to put back together. You members probably all ready know this, but thought I’d share.
And I never mentioned the H word.

Noel

 

[chieffan]

<< And I never mentioned the H word. >>>

No, but had to show a pic of it. Just as bad.

 

[MFDAC]

Looks like your son is a good deal finder on the 'net, Noel! It's pretty amazing what the parts stores and manufacturers want you to buy, even if you do it yourself. I hate to say it but I very rarely buy parts locally any more because the 5-600% markup they get just ain't in my budget!

On a stupid note, I had to quit typing for a couple minutes and swat a fly that landed right on my computer screen! Then had to clean the screen---LOL! Three days of freezing weather didn't kill the dang things off yet!

DAC

 

[Propane1]

Ya your getting strange weather. Cooler here tomorrow. North wind. I can see wood stove on in sons garage.

Don’t want the hoist to get cold, you know.

Hehehehe.

Noel.

 

[MFDAC]

Ya your getting strange weather. Cooler here tomorrow. North wind. I can see wood stove on in sons garage.

Don’t want the hoist to get cold, you know.

Hehehehe.

Noel.

You used the "H" word---now Roger will be on your a$$---LOL!

DAC