Workin' on the Old Tractors

There's no turning back now. Pulled the distributor, generator, starter, fan, and water pump to get to get them out of the way. Then went after the cylinder assemblies.
 

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Removed the radiator, hydraulic system, fuel tank, and front end. Just the crankcase is left. Supposed to rain tomorrow so I may not get the crankcase removed.
 

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Removed the radiator, hydraulic system, fuel tank, and front end. Just the crankcase is left. Supposed to rain tomorrow so I may not get the crankcase removed.
Cjet.. The morning you got up and decided to go dig out that tractor do you ever think maybe I should have thought of something else to do that day... ;)
 
Looks like it’s a good thing that you’re tearing it all the way down.
With the wear that it has I could see just throwing bearings in it and hoping. My brother verified that at least one rod is out of round and will need resizing.

Cjet.. The morning you got up and decided to go dig out that tractor do you ever think maybe I should have thought of something else to do that day... ;)
When I bought it 20 yrs ago I assumed that this would need to be done to it. I also like this type of work, just don't like the $$$$ end of it.
 
Got the crankcase pulled and removed the cam and crank. I think all that remains is the governor and oil pump. We'll see if I can get the spare crankcase and front end bolted on tomorrow so I can roll it out of here.
 

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Bolted the ZAN back together. Had to put the radiator back on to keep water out of the steering gear while it sits. Added some sheet metal to help shed water. Now to find a good spot to park it.
 

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Lead based paint was far superior to the stuff nowadays, at least in the sign industry. Better adhesion, opacity and long term durability. I still have a 50# bucket of Dutch Boy white lead from the 1930's or '40's. I liked the can. When I left a 80-year-old sign shop I worked at in the early 1980's one of my ex-coworkers swiped that bucket of white lead and brought it to the shop I had. Je said he remembered how cool I thought the bucket was---LOL!

Even Rustoleum had some good spray paints in the 1970's far as using like MM did inside engine blocks. I worked at a racecar shop from 1973-1975. We would de-burr the inside of engine blocks, polish them up a bit with a die grinder and put them through a cleaning process in a hot tank. Get them out has was with a steam cleaner while hot and dry them off with compressed air. Mask off the machined surfaces and paint the internals with Rustoleum Fire Hydrant Red. I still have one engine block still in service in my '72 GMC that was prepped back then. Last time I had that engine opened up was back in 2015 and the paint was stained but still intact! The engine builder back then said the internal paint would seal in microscopic sand from the casting process that was imbedded in the pores of the cast iron. Engine still runs well. Nowadays I would imagine the casting process is much cleaner.
C2500 valve issues#6 008.jpg

C2500 valve issues#6 064.jpg

DAC
 
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